Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators in an apartment

Heating system type

Single pipe systems can be routed vertically or horizontally. The latter option is most suitable for low-rise dwellings: usually we are talking about one- or two-story houses. Three-story buildings are rarely equipped with horizontal wiring. Vertical wiring is usually used in high-rise buildings. Such a scheme consists of a pipe coming out of the flow, following to the radiator, and then to the floor. This picture can be observed in all (or almost all) rooms. Sometimes there are cases when two radiators are powered from one riser at once. In this case, it is not at all necessary that they be in the same room.

The strong point of this scheme is the low cost of installation work and stability of operation (it is rather difficult to unbalance it). However, if there are significant changes in the parameters of the batteries and pipes, this can significantly affect the hydraulic resistance. As a result, only the first two sections are warm, while the rest of the device remains cold.

For one-pipe wiring, a gradual decrease in the temperature of the coolant is characteristic as it moves away from the boiler. The efficiency of heating the battery from the neighbor on top (with the upper supply) is inversely proportional to the heating of the radiator on the floor below. To avoid such situations, a law was passed on the common ownership of the heating system. Now, in order to replace a pipe or a heating device, you need to obtain the appropriate permits. High-rise buildings are equipped with two-pipe wiring not so often. This is explained by the high consumption of pipes for its organization. In addition, the large dimensions complicate the balancing of the circuit.

A two-pipe system in a multi-storey building has the following scheme:

Two pipes are brought into the room.
The hotter part serves to supply the coolant to the battery.
The second takes the coolant cooled down after the radiator further.

Thanks to this scheme, the identity of the temperature of the heating medium supplied to all heating devices is achieved. It is important to remember that if there is a change in hydraulic resistance in just one radiator, the entire system can be completely unbalanced. A very small resistance will provoke the passage of almost the entire volume of the coolant through this section. Therefore, in the presence of such a wiring, the installation of control valves is mandatory. Most often these are manual control valves or thermostats.

What to consider

When choosing an installation scheme for a radiator, it is important to consider several factors at once:

system type - one-pipe or two-pipe;
where the coolant is supplied from above or below;
the number of sections in the battery.

A little more detail on how all of these factors can affect.

System type

One-pipe system can be with vertical or horizontal wiring. Horizontal is used in low-rise houses - one or two floors, rarely in three-storey ones. Vertical layout is common in high-rise buildings. This is when a pipe comes out of the stream, enters the radiator, and then goes from the radiator to the floor. And such a picture is observed in every, or almost every room (there are options, two radiators are powered from one riser, and they can be in different rooms, or maybe in one).

Options for connecting two radiators from one riser.In the photo, the wiring is one-pipe, supply from the top

Why is this system good? It requires less installation costs, is more stable - it is more difficult to unbalance it. However, with a massive change in the parameters of radiators and pipes, the hydraulic resistance can change dramatically. And instead of the expected "warming" you can get barely warm first two sections, and a corresponding decrease in temperature.

What is the disadvantage of one-pipe wiring? As the coolant advances, it gradually cools. And the more efficiently the radiator from the neighbor on top heats up (with the upper supply), the colder it will be on the lower floor. That is why they adopted a decree stating that the heating system is a common property, and the replacement of pipes or heating devices must be coordinated with the operating organization.

It looks like a vertical two-pipe system, lateral connection (supply riser to the right)

Two-pipe wiring in multi-storey buildings is rarely used: many more pipes go to it, and with large sizes it is more difficult to balance. This is what a two-pipe system looks like in a multi-storey building: two pipes enter the room. From one (hotter) coolant is supplied to the radiator, a slightly cooled one is discharged along the second. With this scheme, a coolant of approximately the same temperature is supplied to all heating devices through the riser. This is its plus. But by changing the hydraulic resistance in just one radiator, you can completely unbalance the system. If the resistance is very small, then the entire coolant (or almost all) will go through this section. The rest will stay cold. Therefore, if you have such a wiring, the installation of control valves (manual control valves or thermostats) is mandatory.

Heating medium flow direction

Now about how the direction of supply of the coolant affects. With the lower saddle connection of the radiators (the code uses the lower vertical collector, and not a special inlet assembly) there is no particular difference. But with a lateral and diagonal leash, as well as when installing radiators with a lower connection point, you cannot be mistaken with the supply. This threatens that he either will not be warmed up at all, or very weakly.

With a lateral or diagonal connection, the flow starts from the top, and the return pipe goes from the bottom. How it looks in real examples, look at the photo.

Side connection for one pipe system, vertical, top delivery

When installing a bimetallic radiator with a bottom connection, you need to know exactly which of the inputs the supply is connected to. This data is in the passport. Why not confuse? Because on the supply in such heating devices, a tube goes up from the inlet unit, which brings the coolant to the upper collector. And then it already spreads over the radiator. The coolant is collected in the lower collector, and from there it is already discharged into the return pipeline. Please note that the connection point can be located on the right or left of the heatsink. Choose the one that is closer to the riser - fewer pipes, neater appearance. Read more about the radiator connection diagrams here.

This is how a radiator with a hidden bottom connection looks like. It is important not to confuse the supply line with the return line.

Number of sections

The number of sections of a bimetallic radiator affects the choice of the type of connection. If the battery has up to 8 sections, side, bottom saddle or diagonal connections can be used. With a larger amount, the most effective is diagonal. Lateral is also possible, but using a flow extension.

How to calculate the number of radiator sections is described here.

A flow extension is a tube that is inserted into the supply manifold.It helps in the case when, with side connection, only the first few sections are hot, the rest are very weak. A tube inserted inside brings the coolant not to the inlet, but further, and therefore the entire surface heats up more evenly.

This is what the flow extension looks like. Uncomplicated device, but the effect is great

How long should the flow extension be installed? There are two options: for 2/3 batteries or until the middle of the last section. Different options are effective in different situations. In any case, the radiator starts to warm up better. It's just that sometimes, when installed to the middle of the last section, the former are heated significantly less than the latter. Then the way out is to shorten the tube. But this situation does not always arise. It depends on the pressure of the riser and the diameter of the liner. Based on experience, it is possible to advise to put a long pipe, then, if necessary, it can be shortened (it will not be possible to increase it).

Sometimes, for a more even distribution of the coolant in the tube of the flow extension, holes are made through which it enters the nearby vertical collectors. But the thickets and the one-piece tube prove to be very effective.

Coolant circulation direction

Bottom saddle connection of batteries with the use of a lower vertical collector makes it possible not to depend on the direction of the coolant supply. The same cannot be said about the lateral and diagonal leash, as well as when radiators with a lower connection point are used: here the supply must be clearly adjusted. Otherwise, the device may stop heating completely, or it will heat up very weakly. Lateral or diagonal connection provides for the use of the top feed (in this case, the return pipe goes from the bottom).

When mounting a bimetallic radiator with a bottom connection, it is important to clarify in advance which of the inputs will be connected to the supply. Usually this information is indicated in the passport. It is important not to confuse the directions, because the supply in such heaters is equipped with a tube going up from the inlet assembly. With its help, the coolant is adjusted to the upper collector. After that, it spreads over the radiator.

The place of collection of the coolant is the lower collector, from where it is fed into the return pipeline. The connection unit is located on the left or right side of the radiator (it is recommended to choose the point closest to the riser). This makes it possible to save on pipes for bimetallic radiators and achieve a more aesthetic appearance.

Number of sections of bimetallic radiators

How many sections there will be on a bimetallic radiator has a direct impact on the choice of connection method. The battery up to 8 sections can be switched by side, bottom saddle or diagonal connection. If there are more than 8 sections, it is better to use a diagonal connection.

When using side switching, a flow extension will be required. This refers to the tube inserted into the supply manifold. It helps out in situations where the lateral connection provides heating of only the first sections. Thanks to the tube inserted inside, the coolant flows beyond the inlet, more evenly heating the surface of the device.

Flow extension length options:

2/3 batteries.
To the center of the last section.

Various cases show the effectiveness of both the first and second options. The main thing is that a noticeable optimization of the heating of the radiator is achieved. Sometimes it happens that the installation to the middle of the last section provokes a decrease in the heating level of the first sections. In this case, it is recommended to shorten the tube. But such situations rarely occur, which is affected by the pressure in the riser and the cross-section of the liner.

As practical experience dictates, it is better to mount a long tube, becauseit can always be shortened (but it cannot be increased). Another way to distribute the coolant more evenly is to fit the flow extension tube with a series of holes. Thanks to this, the coolant enters the vertical collectors located nearby. However, in general, a solid tube is sufficient.

Structural device of bimetallic radiators

For the first time on the Russian market, aluminum radiators appeared in the 90s; they were made in Italy by several of the world's leading manufacturers of heating equipment. The high thermal conductivity and strength of the batteries, which, according to the manufacturers, reached 50 bar, it would seem, could provide aluminum heat exchangers with a long cloudless life in the domestic market. But why did you need to redo something that already works so well?

As mentioned above, aluminum is too picky about the pH value, which should not go beyond the range of 7 - 8 units. As a result, in the process of operation, for some consumers, aluminum batteries functioned for up to 10 years, for others, they began to leak after 2 - 3 seasons due to the destruction of the protective oxide layer.

What kind of fittings are needed

To connect a sectional bimetallic radiator, you will need a standard connection kit.

These are the following elements:

Plugs.
Manual air vent ("Mayevsky" valve) and a key to it.
Pair of adapters (with right-hand and left-hand threads).

The right and left sides of the radiator are supplied with adapters. They can be used to connect fittings or pipes. Their diameter (½ or ¾ inch) directly affects the diameter of the fittings and connections.

Pipes

When replacing radiators in a high-rise building, it is necessary to use the same pipes and with the same diameter. This is not just a whim. The fact is that in multi-storey buildings, systems with certain parameters are used. The main ones are hydraulic resistance and working pressure. A test (pressure test) pressure is specially organized for them, which is used during the start-up of the system. As a rule, it is an order of magnitude higher than the worker.

The use of polypropylene and metal-plastic pipes for connecting bimetallic radiators, despite all their advantages, is not recommended in such conditions. Their visual appeal in no way contributes to an increase in service life in conditions of centralized systems, which is fraught with the appearance of leaks with all the ensuing consequences.

The same applies to the diameter of the pipes. When changing the diameter of the line, the hydraulic resistance of the entire circuit changes greatly. And no one can guarantee that this will have favorable consequences. Therefore, when using half-inch pipes in the system, you do not need to experiment with other diameters. The same goes for battery fittings and adapters.

Bypass assignment and selection

When installing a bimetallic radiator in a one-pipe system, it is imperative to use a bypass. This is the name of the jumper between the supply and return pipes. It makes it possible for the excess coolant to bypass the battery. This scheme allows you to avoid blocking the drain and subsequent troubles with the control campaign. Most often, the bypass is made offset: the most optimal place for its location is between the radiator and the riser. If a tap is cut into the jumper, this will make it possible to adjust the temperature of the radiator. However, in this case, there is a possibility of blocking the riser.

A more effective solution is to use an unregulated bypass by equipping the radiator directly with control valves. This is mainly done in cases where the room is very hot. If there is no such problem, then it is better not to reduce the efficiency of the radiators, which inevitably happens when installing regulators.

The automatic fittings are designed for a pressure of 10 atm.Therefore, when the pressure drops below 15 atmospheres, the operation does not encounter any difficulties. Exceeding this limit is likely to lead to failure of the devices. If you cannot do without a thermostat, and the test pressure is very high, it is better to dismantle the device before starting the circuit, replacing it with a squeegee. Upon completion of the pressure test, the device is mounted back, which makes it possible to clean the valve at the same time.

Choice of valves

As some manufacturers recommend, the installation of bimetallic heating radiators with your own hands should be accompanied by the installation of shut-off valves at the inlet and outlet. These are ball valves. In order for the permeability of the coolant to be normal, it is better to use full bore products.

Thanks to the shut-off valves, the radiator can be dismantled at any time for repair and maintenance, without stopping the entire system. To do this, it is enough to turn off the taps and wait for the coolant to cool. Then the device can be removed. In such cases, the presence of a bypass helps out, through which the coolant will bypass the serviced battery. Otherwise, you will have to turn off the entire riser, which can only be done with the permission of the management campaign.

Rules for connecting heating radiators

In the old days, it was problematic to install heating radiators on your own because of the welding work, which was an integral part of the installation. Modern materials make it possible to do without special devices, which makes it possible to carry out the installation of heating radiators in the house with your own hands.
To carry out similar events in the apartment, it is recommended to involve the plumbers of the service company, since it will be necessary to completely disconnect the system from the mains and drain the water. Not everyone knows how to do it correctly, and a poor-quality connection can turn into a flood of hot water.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3BaaUUG4JZE

If we are talking about replacing old structures with new ones, then the question of location disappears by itself. In the case of planning a circuit diagram, it is necessary to take into account important factors, according to which the batteries must create reliable thermal protection. No matter how high-quality modern double-glazed windows are, they are still sources of a cold air stream.

• the diagonal method involves connecting the supply pipe to the upper part of the heater, and the return pipe from the bottom, but with the location on the other side;

• bottom connection is carried out at the bottom of the battery on different sides;

• lateral or one-sided method is more often used with a vertical wiring diagram with connection to the right or left side of the radiator.

1. Preparatory work includes the dismantling of old structures, if necessary. The water must be completely drained from the disconnected system beforehand. On the wall, you will need to install special fasteners for the batteries or check the strength and correct installation of existing hooks. You should also do a study of the wall surface for integrity.

Often, cracks and gaps form under the windowsill over time. They must be sealed with cement mortar, and foil insulation should be fixed on a dry surface. Among other options for wall decoration: plaster with a special insulating compound, plasterboard cladding with an insulating layer, etc.

• To increase heat transfer and save heat resources, it is worth fixing a sheet of foil insulation on the wall on the back of the radiator. Penny costs will save up to 10% on heating.

High-quality heating is a guarantee of a favorable climate in the house and the absence of cold weather even in the most severe frosts.Therefore, if you have an old and already ineffective radiator in your apartment or cottage, then it should be replaced. At first glance, this seems like a very difficult job, available only to specialized professionals with significant experience. But with due regard to the matter and the presence of some tools, installing heating batteries with your own hands does not pose a serious problem.

In addition to the characteristics of the radiator itself and the literacy of its connection, one of the most important factors affecting the efficiency of the heating system is the choice of the right place for the location of the product. True, in most cases it is predetermined in advance - the new battery, most likely, will stand in the place of the old cast-iron battery, which has existed since the construction of the building. But still, here are some recommendations for the correct placement of the radiator.

How to install a radiator with your own hands

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=olrD9qxCAhM

First, it is advisable to place the battery under a window. The fact is that it is a "bridge" through which the cold from the street gets into an apartment or a cottage. The presence of a radiator under the window forms a kind of "thermal curtain" that interferes with the process described above. In this case, the battery should be placed strictly in the middle of the window, and, preferably, occupy up to 70-80% of its width.

Secondly, the distance from the floor to the radiator must be at least 80-120 mm. If it is less, then it will be inconvenient to clean under the battery, a huge amount of dust and debris will accumulate there. And if the radiator is located higher, a certain amount of cold air will collect under it, which requires heating and, as a result, impairs the operation of the heating system. In addition, too small a distance to the sill has a negative effect on the efficiency of the battery.

Thirdly, a distance of 2.5-3 cm is allowed between the rear of the radiator and the wall. If it is less, the processes of convection and movement of warm air flows are disrupted, and, as a result, the battery works less efficiently and spends some of the heat in vain.

All the above principles of placing a heating battery are presented in the diagram above.

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Home »Heating» DIY installation and connection of heating radiators

The device or reconstruction of the heating system implies the installation or replacement of heating devices. The good news is that if you want, you can do it yourself without involving specialists. How the installation of heating radiators should take place, where and how to place them, what is needed to carry out the work - all this is in the article.

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators is possible

If you install radiators with the bottom connection, you have no choice. Each manufacturer rigidly binds the supply and return, and its recommendations must be strictly followed, since otherwise you simply will not get heat. There are more options with side connection (more details about them are written here).

One-way connection is most often used in apartments. It can be two-pipe or one-pipe (the most common option). In apartments, metal pipes are still used, therefore, we will consider the option of tying the radiator with steel pipes on squeegees.In addition to pipes of a suitable diameter, two ball valves, two tees and two squeegees are needed - parts with external threads at both ends.

Lateral connection with bypass (one pipe system)

All this connects as shown in the photo. With a one-pipe system, a bypass is mandatory - it allows you to turn off the radiator without stopping or lowering the system. You cannot put a crane on the bypass - you will block the movement of the coolant along the riser with it, which is unlikely to please your neighbors and, most likely, will be fined.

Read next: What to do if the faucet is leaking how to fix a leak in the bathroom

All threaded connections are sealed with fum tape or linen tape, on top of which packing paste is applied. When screwing the tap into the radiator manifold, a lot of winding is not required. Too much of it can lead to the appearance of microcracks and subsequent destruction. This is true for almost all types of heating devices, except for cast iron. When installing all the others, please, no fanaticism.

Welded option

If you have the skills / ability to use welding, you can weld the bypass. This is how the piping of radiators in apartments usually looks.

With a two-pipe system, a bypass is not required. The supply is connected to the upper input, the return is connected to the lower one, taps, of course, are needed.

One-sided piping with two-pipe system

With lower wiring (pipes are laid on the floor), this type of connection is done very rarely - it turns out to be inconvenient and ugly, it is much better in this case to use a diagonal connection.

Installation of heating radiators with diagonal connection is the best option in terms of heat transfer. She is the highest in this case. With the lower wiring, this type of connection is easy to implement (example in the photo) - supply from this side at the top, return from the other at the bottom.

With two-pipe bottom wiring

With a one-pipe system with vertical risers (in apartments), things do not look so good, but people put up with it because of the higher efficiency.

Coolant supply from above

Note that with a one-pipe system, a bypass is again required.

Coolant supply from below

With lower wiring or hidden piping, installing heating radiators in this way is the most convenient and most inconspicuous.

With a two-pipe system

With saddle connections and bottom one-pipe wiring, there are two options - with and without bypass. Without a bypass, the taps are still installed, if necessary, you can remove the radiator, and install a temporary jumper between the taps - a squeeze (a piece of pipe of the required length with threads at the ends).

Saddle connection for one pipe system

With vertical wiring (risers in high-rise buildings), this type of connection can be seen infrequently - heat losses are too large (12-15%).

Applicable to all batteries, regardless of type:

it is imperative to calculate the amount of coolant that the battery can accommodate;
the water in the heating system is shut off, then the pipes are blown through with the help of a pump;
torque wrenches are required;

Attention! Tightening and securing parts at your own discretion is unacceptable! The circulating fluid is under pressure, so improper fastening of the parts leads to unpleasant consequences.

a suitable option for connecting batteries is initially thought out and selected;
radiators are mounted at a certain angle to prevent the accumulation of air masses in them, otherwise they will have to be removed through the air vent;
in private houses, pipes made of metal-plastic are recommended for use, in apartments - made of metal;
the protective film from new heating devices is removed only after the installation is completed.

one-way connection;
diagonal;
bottom.

Air Vents

The standard mounting kit includes a manual air vent ("Mayevsky" valve). The place of its installation is the free upper collector. The presence of an air vent is mandatory when connecting a bimetallic radiator. The fact is that the contact of the coolant with the collector materials provokes chemical reactions, as a result of which gases are formed.

Thanks to this small device, it becomes possible to remove air and gases that have accumulated inside the radiator. If this is neglected, overpressure will appear in the system, provoking a violation of circulation and uneven heating of the batteries. To release gases, open and close the tap with a key.

If there is no desire to manually vent the gases, there is an option with the installation of an automatic air vent. It is mounted in the same place as the Mayevsky crane. The device has a cylindrical shape and a height of 6-8 cm: during installation, strict verticality must be observed. To hide the automatic air vent from the eyes, a decorative screen for the radiator is usually used.

How to install correctly

Now how to hang a radiator. It is highly desirable that the wall behind the radiator is level - it is easier to work this way. The middle of the opening is marked on the wall, a horizontal line is drawn 10-12 cm below the window sill line. This is the line along which the upper edge of the heater is aligned. The brackets must be installed so that the top edge coincides with the drawn line, that is, it is horizontal.

Correct installation of heating radiators

Wall mount

This must be taken into account when installing hooks or brackets for heating radiators. Hooks are installed like dowels - a hole of a suitable diameter is drilled in the wall, a plastic dowel is installed in it, and the hook is screwed into it. The distance from the wall to the heater can be easily adjusted by twisting and unscrewing the hook body.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfkFcArxvXk

Cast iron battery hooks are thicker. This is a fastener for aluminum and bimetallic

When installing hooks under heating radiators, keep in mind that the main load falls on the upper fasteners. The lower one serves only for fixing in a given position relative to the wall and is installed 1-1.5 cm lower than the lower collector. Otherwise, you simply cannot hang the radiator.

One of the types of brackets

When installing the brackets, they are applied to the wall in the place where they will be mounted. To do this, first attach the battery to the installation site, look where the bracket will "fit", mark the place on the wall. With the battery down, you can attach the bracket to the wall and mark the location of the fasteners on it. In these places, holes are drilled, dowels are inserted, the bracket is screwed onto the screws. Having installed all the fasteners, the heater is hung on them.

Fixing to the floor

Not all walls can support even lightweight aluminum batteries. If the walls are made of lightweight concrete or plasterboard, a floor installation is required. Some types of cast iron and steel radiators come immediately on legs, but they do not suit everyone in appearance or characteristics.

Feet for installing aluminum and bimetallic radiators on the floor

Possible floor installation of aluminum and bimetallic radiators. There are special brackets for them. They are attached to the floor, then the heating device is installed, the lower collector is fixed with an arc on the installed legs. There are similar legs with adjustable height, there are fixed ones. The method of fastening to the floor is standard - on nails or dowels, depending on the material.

The installation of each type of battery has its own nuances.

Cast iron

The difference from the standard scheme is that for batteries of this type, sections are initially formed using a radiator key.

The nipples are impregnated with linseed oil and manually fixed on 2 threads. In this case, a gasket must be used. Then the radiator keys are inserted into the nipple holes and tightened.

Important! The assembly of the sections must be carried out with an assistant, since the simultaneous rotation of the nipples can lead to skewing.

After crimping the battery, a layer of primer is applied to it and painted.

Aluminum

Passes according to the standard scheme of one of three connection options.

The only caveat is that aluminum batteries are fixed both on the wall and on the floor. For the latter option, special clamping rings on the legs are used.

By adjusting the indentation of the radiator from the wall, floor and window sill, you can increase or decrease the level of heat transfer from the battery.

When installing aluminum heating sources, they are guided by the attached instructions. If the recommendations indicate the use of a coolant, then you need to use it exclusively.

Installing the shield in front of the radiator will increase the efficiency.

Such batteries are suitable for installation in private houses with autonomous heating.

Steel

An important point in connection is to check the horizontality of the battery. Any deviation will reduce work efficiency.

Read more: Do-it-yourself bailer for cleaning a well

In addition to wall brackets, floor stands are used for additional fixation.

Otherwise, standard connection schemes are used.

Bimetallic

In such batteries, it is allowed to build up or remove unnecessary sections. They are already painted. The sections are pulled together in stages from the bottom and from the top, without distortions.

Attention! In the place where the sealing gasket for the nipple is located, do not sandpaper or file.

As with the standard scheme, pre-treatment of the wall is required.

Installation nuances

There are two types of bimetallic radiators: partially or completely bimetallic. In the first case, aluminum is used for the manufacture of vertical collectors, which requires special care during installation.

There are the following requirements on how to properly connect a bimetallic battery:

When connecting fittings and manifolds, it is necessary to keep from excessive forces. Typically, the accompanying documentation contains detailed installation instructions. A torque wrench is very convenient in this respect, allowing you to control the applied force.
When using linen roll, it is important not to overdo it with the amount. Otherwise, part of the effort will go to it, which ultimately will lead to the appearance of microcracks. After the coolant enters them, the process of peeling off the paint will start. As a result, sooner or later, a leak will appear. It is best to apply a sealant and some flax. It is better to refuse the use of paint in systems where antifreeze acts as a heat carrier. This will quickly erode the seal and cause leakage.

The battery must be installed in a strictly horizontal position. The exception is the cases of using an air vent, when, for greater efficiency of the gas release, some deviation of the angle forward along the circulation is allowed. It is forbidden to make a slope in the opposite direction, because this disrupts circulation.
When hanging the radiator, three brackets must be used: two at the top and one at the bottom. The upper elements take all the load. Due to the lower fasteners, the desired direction is set.
To ensure effective air exchange, the following parameters should be adhered to: the distance to the floor - from 60 mm, to the window sill - from 100 mm.

In some cases, the manufacturer may recommend other distances, depending on the design features (the differences usually concern a few centimeters). However, the gap between the rear surface of the battery and the wall remains unchanged - 30-50 mm.

Installing bimetallic batteries

It clearly describes the procedure for connecting bimetallic heating radiators for a specific model. It should be noted that the installation of all elements of the system is carried out in the plastic packaging of the radiator. And you cannot remove this packaging until the entire installation process is completed.

Consider how to connect a bimetallic heating radiator yourself. When carrying out installation work, the following nuances must be taken into account:

it is better to place the battery in the center of the window;
the equipment is installed only in a horizontal position;
heating parts must be installed at the same level within the room;
the distance from the wall to the battery should be from 3 to 5 cm. Too close the location of the heating system to the wall will lead to the fact that heat energy will be distributed irrationally;
it is necessary to maintain a distance of 8-12 cm from the windowsill. If the gap is too small, the heat flux from the battery will decrease;
the distance between the radiator and the floor should be 10 cm. If the device is installed lower, the heat transfer efficiency will decrease. It will also be inconvenient to clean the floor under the battery. But too high an arrangement of the heating unit will cause the temperature indicators at the bottom and top of the room to be very different.

The installation algorithm for a bimetallic radiator is as follows:

marking of the place for mounting brackets on the wall is carried out;
fixing the brackets. If the wall is brick or reinforced concrete, then the brackets are fixed with dowels and cement mortar. If you are dealing with a plasterboard partition, then the fixation is carried out by double-sided fastening;
a battery is placed on the brackets;
the radiator is connected to the pipes;
a thermostatic valve or faucet is installed;
an air valve is placed at the top of the battery.

Below are some recommendations regarding self-installation of a bimetallic heater:

before starting the installation, shut off the flow of the coolant into the system at the outlet and inlet. There must be no liquid in the pipeline;
Before installation, check the completeness of the battery. The radiator must be assembled. Otherwise, it is necessary to assemble the unit according to the manufacturer's instructions;
it is forbidden to use abrasive materials during assembly. Because the battery design must be sealed. And abrasive substances can destroy the material of the device;
bimetallic radiators use both right-hand and left-hand threads. This must be borne in mind when tightening the fasteners;
When connecting sanitary fittings, the correct choice of material plays an important role. As a rule, flax with a heat-resistant sealant is used. Tangit threads or FUM tape are used;
Before starting the installation, you must have a well-planned radiator connection diagram. It should be noted here that the connection diagram for bimetallic heating radiators can be bottom, diagonal or side;
when the installation is completed, the device is turned on: all the valves of the unit, which previously blocked the path of the coolant, smoothly open. If you open the taps abruptly, you can provoke a clogging of the inner pipe section or cause a water hammer. After the valves are open, bleed off excess air using an air vent;
do not cover bimetallic batteries with screens, install them in wall niches. This will lead to the fact that the heat transfer of the device will sharply decrease.