Warming the floor in the kitchen - materials and methods

If the house has a basement

To insulate the floor in a wooden house with your own hands, you must take into account the peculiarities of the construction. If there is a basement under the living space, and it is not insulated, it will always be cold in such a house, regardless of the number of radiators. It is worthwhile at the construction stage to carry out insulation work, using extruded polystyrene foam for thermal insulation of the foundation, covering the entire foundation up to the base, and for walls mineral wool, which is attached to tile adhesive. This insulation will be sufficient to minimize heat loss.

How to choose a heater?

For floor insulation in a wooden house, materials with a high thermal insulation coefficient are used. The weight of the insulation should not weigh down the structure.

Heat loss diagram in a wooden house

The weight and thickness of the material have no effect on its thermal insulation properties. Only the raw materials from which the insulation was made matters, which ensures the appropriate coefficient of thermal conductivity. Penoplex and foil-clad polystyrene foam have the smallest coefficient.

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer is calculated taking into account the following factors:

• average indoor and outdoor temperature;
• the volume of the room;
• the selected material;
• required indoor temperature.

To preserve heat in the house, you can use both traditional, one might say, classic options, and modern ones, based on extrusion, foaming of certain compositions, which prevents the penetration of cold air.

VIDEO: Installation process

Varieties of materials

Loose heaters

• sand;
• expanded clay;
• sawdust;
• granular sawdust heaters.

The main advantage is the environmental friendliness and low cost of these materials. They are easy to fill up the space between the lag or in the gap. High hygroscopicity allows to reduce humidity and thus helps to preserve timber structures.

It is worth remembering that sawdust or sand cakes over time and loses the property of hygroscopicity, so they need to be changed.

In the southern regions, for the same purpose, kamka is used - dry seaweed, which are ideal for insulation, while saturating the air with useful substances even after years of operation.

Dry seaweed (kamka)

On the Black Sea coast, this is the most popular and demanded option for insulation. Yes, someone will call it imperfect, since for high-quality insulation there should be a layer of about 50 cm. But, firstly, there is no shortage of such material on the seashore. Secondly, taking into account the southern climate, it is this thickness and such material that is quite enough.

Among the main advantages, it is worth highlighting:

• an environmentally friendly product - and this is not just a loud expression, but a 100% statement;
• the grass does not emit any harmful substances even when smoldering;
• does not rot for 50 years or more, and thanks to modern processing, fungus and other pathogens are not attacked;
• does not burn - when any burning objects hit from a match to a burning log, the process of self-extinguishing occurs;
• saturates the indoor air with useful compounds;
• mice, rats and other rodents do not eat damask or even come close to it, which becomes a clear advantage over modern insulation materials.

We listed the disadvantages of such a material earlier - a large number and the ability to use only on the coast, where there is no shortage of such almost exotic.

Mineral wool

It is a compound of numerous fibers obtained by spraying remelted glass, blast furnace slag or rocks.

Taking into account the peculiarities of production, several types are distinguished:

The advantage of mineral wool is that it has low thermal conductivity, does not rot, mold or mildew, and is fireproof.

It should be borne in mind that to insulate the floor in a wooden house using mineral wool, an additional vapor barrier layer is required, since when moisture is absorbed, mineral wool loses its thermal insulation properties.

It has a fibrous structure and is made of polyethylene foam. It is perfect for thermal insulation of the floor in a wooden house. There are two types of this material:

• foil (one or both sides are covered with aluminum foil);
• normal, uncoated.

Foil-clad penofol is most often used, since it has good strength, steam and thermal insulation.

• easy and quick to install - just roll out the roll and cut to size;
• resistant to mechanical stress, not compressed under the weight of the flooring;
• does not require additional vapor or waterproofing;
• durable.

Styrofoam or Styrofoam

Polystyrene, as a floor insulation in a wooden house, is very popular. High heat-insulating qualities and relatively low cost allow it to be used both for thermal insulation of the floor above the basement and for insulation along the ground.

• rigidity and strength allows you to lay it on any surface;
• does not lose properties during long-term use;
• not affected by the environment;
• susceptible to moisture, therefore requires additional waterproofing.

The main disadvantage of polystyrene is that it releases toxic substances that are harmful to the human body.

It consists of cellulose fibers and is produced by recycling waste paper with the addition of natural antiseptics and fire retardants, which increase resistance to environmental influences and fire safety.

The main advantage of ecowool is environmental friendliness. The disadvantage is the high cost.

It is applied in two ways:

• fits dry;
• ecowool is mixed with paste and the resulting mixture is applied to the surface to be insulated.

Ecowool is laid by hand or using blowing machines.

Polyurethane foam

Filling the space between lags or cracks with polyurethane foam is a quick and easy way to insulate a floor in a wooden house. The foam forms a monolithic heat-insulating layer, covering all gaps, joints and irregularities. Polyurethane foam also provides excellent waterproofing properties. Can be applied to any surface. The service life of polyurethane foam exceeds 30 years.

Stages of thermal insulation work

Floor insulation works are carried out taking into account the structural features of the structure.

If your home has a low underground, then the stages of work will look like this:

1. Dismantling the flooring. If you are not going to change the coating, then when dismantling, try to act carefully, removing the boards in a certain sequence so as not to confuse where they lay.
2. Deformed and rotted sections of the log should be replaced with new bars.
3. An additional bar is installed under the logs as a support.
4. Rough flooring is being assembled. For this, raw boards are suitable, which must be laid on the supporting structure.
5. A vapor barrier layer is placed on top of the rough flooring.
6. Then logs are installed for finishing flooring.
7. A heat-insulating layer is laid, which should also be covered with a vapor barrier material.
8. Counter-rails for ventilation are installed.
9. Installation of finishing flooring.

To insulate the floor above the basement, it will be enough to install thermal insulation on the basement ceiling.

1. A waterproofing film is attached to the ceiling.
2. Support beams or galvanized profiles are installed along the entire perimeter of the ceiling.
3. The insulation is attached by means of transverse slats to the previously installed support beams.
4. We cover the entire structure with an insulating film.
5. If necessary, we mount the topcoat.

When carrying out any work related to the thermal insulation of a room, the main thing is not to leave gaps and cracks in the insulating layer. The insulation is overlapped, or its joints are fixed with polyurethane foam. This creates an extra cushion of air to keep the cold out of your home.

VIDEO: How to properly insulate a wooden floor

Floor waterproofing

After removing the old kitchen floor covering and thoroughly cleaning the room, you need to waterproof the floor.

1. In this example, we make the maximum waterproofing. Therefore, the first layer of waterproofing will be liquid bituminous mastic. It is sold in buckets. It is applied to the floor as overlap paint on the walls. After the mastic has dried, we lay the roll waterproofing agent. 2. The second layer of waterproofing is made with a roll waterproofing material such as hydroisol HKP (fiberglass). In the photo, more modern materials such as Tehnoeplast are used (lining bitumen-polymer coating). 3. Waterproofing is laid in strips, in one or two layers, usually along the long wall of the kitchen. Adjacent waterproofing strips are laid with an overlap of 20 cm. In addition, a 15-20 cm overlap of waterproofing is done on the kitchen wall along the entire perimeter. After the screed, the excess will need to be cut off. 4. For a kitchen screed, it is not necessary to glue the overlaps of adjacent strips. But if mastic remains from the first layer, then the joints of adjacent sheets can be glued with bituminous mastic.

Related article: Quartz vinyl tiles in the kitchen

5. I would like to note once again that the given example of waterproofing is maximal in its performance. Such waterproofing is more typical for baths, saunas, or if the apartment is on the ground floor with a very damp basement. In an ordinary apartment, it is enough to install roll waterproofing.

Do-it-yourself floor insulation in a wooden private house

Wood is a traditional material that has been used by people since ancient times for the construction of dwellings and outbuildings. However, due to its versatility, environmental friendliness, strength and excellent performance characteristics, it has not lost its relevance at the present time.

Modern wooden house

Wood is characterized by high thermal insulation properties (the coefficient of thermal conductivity, depending on the type of wood, varies from 0.1 to 0.23 W / (m * K))

... But even in houses made of this material, the floor is a weak point that requires special attention.

Warmed air is lighter than cold air, so it always strives to rise up - every student knows about this. In this regard, the floor, especially on the ground floor, often needs to be additionally insulated.

The choice of insulation

Thermal insulation materials used for arranging a wooden house must have a number of properties that affect not only the microclimate in the room, but also the safety during its operation. These include: 1. fire resistance; 2. incombustibility; 3. safety for human health.

The most frequently used materials for insulating a wooden house are: • sawdust; • expanded clay; • mineral wool; • ecowool; • Styrofoam; • penofol.Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. The choice of the method of insulation in each case should be approached individually.

Preparatory work and the sequence of the insulation

Even at the stage of developing a project for a new house or during the insulation of an existing structure, you should think about creating a two-level floor:

1. the first level (draft), on which the layers of thermal insulation will be laid in the future. It consists of rough planks attached to beams; 2. the second level (finishing) will serve as the basis for laying the topcoat or will itself be it.

Two-level floor

When proceeding with the thermal insulation of the floor, you should take care of additional waterproofing. For this purpose, you can use plastic wrap, which must be spread over the entire surface of the subfloor, including logs. Butt seams should be securely glued with tape.

Next, a heater is laid on top of the waterproofing layer, which is then covered with a vapor barrier (glassine is one of the options). However, for some types of thermal insulation materials, hygroscopicity is not characteristic. The final stage is the installation of the finished floor.

Characteristics of the most common thermal insulation materials

Sawdust

- available material that is a by-product of the woodworking industry. They can be used both as an independent heat-insulating material, and as a basis for the preparation of various mixtures, which may include, for example, cement or sand.

Floor insulation with sawdust

However, such insulation may soon become a refuge for small rodents and other pests.

Expanded clay

- a common insulation, obtained by swelling light types of clay. There are several types of it: ► gravel; ► crushed stone; ► sand. Such fractions differ in shape, size and value of the thermal conductivity coefficient. However, to achieve the most effective insulation, a mixture of them is used.

Expanded clay has a number of valuable properties: ✓ can be used in a fairly wide range of temperatures; ✓ does not harm human health; ✓ unattractive to insects and rodents; ✓ characterized by excellent sound and heat insulation properties. But it easily absorbs moisture, which is why the quality of such a heater can significantly decrease over time.

This problem is solved by laying hydro and vapor barrier.

The height of the expanded clay layer reaches 20 cm. In this regard, its use may be limited by the insufficient height of the walls in the room. Expanded clay can be used as an independent thermal insulation material, or mixed with cement mortar.

Mineral wool

available in three types: 1. glass wool (glass wool); 2. stone (basalt) wool; 3. slag wool.

The advantages of such insulation include: • incombustibility; • vapor tightness; • resistance to significant temperature changes; • high soundproofing properties; • absence of mold, fungi, rodents and small insects.

Stacked mineral wool

When using mats, plates, rolls of mineral wool, it should be remembered that such insulation is a hygroscopic material. Therefore, you will definitely have to lay steam and thermal insulation. Important: when assembling the final floor level, it is necessary to avoid creasing or artificial compaction of mineral wool. Otherwise, the effectiveness of such a heater will significantly decrease.
Important: when working with mineral wool, you will have to use personal protective equipment (glasses, gloves, respirator).
Ecowool

... unlike mineral wool, it is absolutely harmless, as it is made from sawdust. Using it as a heater, you need to take care of steam and heat insulation.The high cost of such material may also be a surprise.

Styrofoam

- foamed polymer material, produced mainly in the form of plates. It is characterized by a low value of the thermal conductivity coefficient and does not absorb moisture at all. Under normal conditions, the foam is not harmful to human health. However, it is highly flammable and burns.

Styrofoam laid between the lags
Penofol

- a foam material consisting of a polymer layer and foil, bonded at the production stage. Such insulation does not need additional waterproofing.
Information: Penofol must be laid with the foil side up. In this case, heat is reflected (returned) into the room.

An example of laying penofol

Floor insulation is a time consuming and rather costly process. But, having spent once, in the future you can save on heating and avoid unwanted health problems.

Related video: Do-it-yourself floor insulation in a wooden house

Insulation of a frame house

Mats for warm water floor

At the time of construction of a frame house, many people have a question about how you can reduce the cost of costs, and, accordingly, what can you save on? The answer to this question is quite simple: using sawdust or small shavings as insulation. If, for example, we take the average area of ​​a frame house of 80 meters, then the required volume of insulation for laying in the walls will be about 50 cubic meters, in this case the savings can be up to 90 thousand rubles. compared to using stone wool.

Some people are thinking about insulating a frame house by using sawdust from the point of view of environmental friendliness.

Features of use

The use of sawdust as a heater is advisable if it is a one-story frame-type structure. And to get started, you need the following:

• sawdust;
• lime;
• cement;
• watering can;
• wood antiseptic, boric acid can be used;
• stirrer or paddle;
• container for the mixture.

Insulation of a frame house with sawdust

The thickness of the required layer of insulation is influenced by the climatic features of the area, as well as the purpose of the house. To live in a building in the warm season, 25 cm will be enough for overlapping and 15 cm for walls. If the house is intended for permanent residence, then you need to increase the layer to 30 cm. In those areas where the wiring or chimney passes, it is best to use additional material that has high fire resistance. But it is best to "hide" all the wiring in metal sleeves, the thickness of which should be at least 3 mm.

It is worth noting that using sawdust as a heater for a frame house, you save on porosity, since there is no longer any need to use it.

Insulation technology of a frame house

This is approximately what the algorithm looks like for a simple way to insulate a frame house through the use of sawdust.

First stage. Prepare a mixture of sawdust, cement or gypsum and lime. This requires 10 buckets of sawdust, 1 part of cement or gypsum, and one bucket of lime. Then, using a watering can, the finished mixture is sprayed with a solution of boric acid, which in this case serves as an antiseptic. Then water is poured in, approximately it may take up to 10 buckets, you need to adjust the moisture content of the solution yourself: take a little solution and squeeze it in your hand, if the resulting mixture does not crumble, then it is ready.

Second phase. The resulting mixture must be poured into areas requiring thermal insulation, tamped well and left for a while.

Stage three. After two weeks, the thermal insulation must be checked for voids and, if they are found, it is necessary to re-fill everything with sawdust.

How to insulate the floor in a wooden house yourself - selection and installation of insulation, advice on typical solutions

Wood is the material that provides comfort. It is environmentally friendly, easy to process, strong and durable. The house from it turns out to be beautiful, safe and warm. However, winter frost at one fine time can make you think about additional insulation of your home. If you have two floors, then the first one must be insulated.

Naturally, this procedure is best done at the initial stage of construction, but if this did not happen, then try to get the job done as quickly as possible. But keep in mind that insulation in a wooden house has some nuances.

Installation of the "warm floor" system as an option for floor insulation under the tiles

1. We prepare the base. We remove the old coating and clean the space between the lags.
2. If necessary, we level the flaws with a cement-sand mortar.
3. We install waterproofing.
4. We lay the insulation. The best option is polystyrene, penofol, polyurethane foam plates 3-5 cm thick. A special insulation for the "warm floor" system is also sold, it has recesses for pipes, which greatly facilitates the work.
5. In order to avoid deformation of the insulation during the heating of pipes, it is recommended to leave a gap of at least 0.5 cm between the foam and the wall. The gaps between the sheets can be sealed with polyurethane foam.
6. We make pipe laying. The best option is to use metal-plastic or polypropylene, as they are durable, strong and have good flexibility. Their installation is possible in one of the following ways:

• spiral;

  

  The distance between the pipes should be 30-40 cm.

• snake;
• a spiral with an offset center;
• double snake.

No matter how the pipes are laid, the distance between them should be 30-40 cm. We bring the supply and return ends to the collector cabinet. You can attach pipes to the insulation in the following ways:

• laying between "bosses";
• using U-shaped spring brackets;
• mounting aluminum plates;
• mounting on a special metal mesh with plastic clips for fastening pipes.

We connect the system to the water supply, set the necessary adjustments in the collector cabinet, fill the pipes with coolant, turn on the system.

Varieties of heaters and their features

The lower the coefficient of thermal conductivity, the more heat is retained by the material
Before insulating the floor in a wooden structure, you must choose the right material. There are such types of insulation:

• Minvata. This product has a low thermal conductivity, practically does not ignite, protects the house from excessive noise, and ensures the vapor permeability of the floor (which is especially important in wooden buildings). It can be installed very quickly and has good environmental characteristics.

If the floor succumbs to moisture, then it is better not to insulate it with mineral wool. The fact is that this material, as a result of contact with water, loses its technical qualities and can deform. Good waterproofing will help eliminate the problem. This material is well suited for insulating the second floor.

• Dry screed. This insulation can only be used if the floor has already shrunk. The advantages of such a material include resistance to fire, a high level of insulation, speed and ease of installation, small thickness of sheets, good protection against noise, as well as the ability to use under any topcoat. There are also disadvantages: the possibility of mold, fragility and a relatively high cost. In addition, one bag of mix can only be used for 1 m2 of area.

• Glass wool. Such insulation, along with mineral wool, is excellent for arranging floors in wooden houses. It is safe, easy to install and does not burn. But it must be laid carefully, hands at this time must be reliably protected, because the material contains the smallest particles of glass.The disadvantage of the insulation is its rapid shrinkage, which worsens the thermal insulation qualities. In addition, glass wool has poor moisture resistance.

• Styrofoam. This material is cheap and easy to install. It has good technical characteristics, but has a high level of fragility.

Styrofoam does not allow the tree to "breathe" as it does not allow air to pass through. Therefore, if you choose this type of material for a wooden house, then try to take this feature into account.

• Expanded polystyrene. It is non-flammable, resistant to temperature changes and moisture, protects well against excessive noise, and is highly durable. But its cost can scare away the user.

If you have decided on the material, then you can start laying it.

Some types of floor insulation and the required thickness of the thermal insulation layer

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Underfloor heating in the kitchen is a modern level of comfort that turns a familiar work environment for cooking into a cozy room where you want to relax and enjoy a cup of aromatic coffee. The use of innovative heating systems creates an atmosphere conducive to friendly gatherings in the kitchen.

Let's try to decide whether a warm floor is really necessary in the kitchen and consider how it can be equipped.

1. Arguments for and against underfloor heating in the kitchen
2. Varieties of warm floors
3. Electrical systems
   Warm floor in the kitchen: cable floor device diagram
4. Electric floor heating technology
5. Underfloor heating in the kitchen
   Water floor scheme
6. Methods for laying water floors
7. Laying underfloor heating in the kitchen with your own hands: step by step instructions
8. Recommendations of experts for the installation of underfloor heating in the kitchen

Arguments for and against underfloor heating in the kitchen

Warming a room with underfloor heating is becoming more and more popular every year. However, this technology has both supporters and critics who argue that a warm floor in the kitchen is not a particularly necessary thing. Here are some of the pros and cons.

The obvious advantages of underfloor heating:

1. Comfort. No matter how trite, but the main advantage of the "warm floor" system is the feeling of a warm surface and the ability to walk barefoot around the kitchen (especially important if the floor is finished with tiles).

   

2. Even distribution of heat. Warm air in accordance with the laws of physics rises up, and below there are "pockets" of cold air. Thus, standard radiators heat the ceiling. The use of a warm floor contributes to the accumulation of warm air masses in the lower plane of the room.
3. The variety of modern floor heating systems allows them to be used under different coatings: tiles, linoleum, laminate, etc.
4. It is in the kitchen, during cooking, that emergency ventilation situations often arise. This can cause the floor to fog up. The "warm floor" system prevents such phenomena.
5. Most housewives refuse to use paths and carpets in the kitchen or loggia, due to the impracticality of their operation. In such a situation, underfloor heating becomes the best solution.
6. Temperature gradient. It is well known that a person feels comfortable and cozy if the legs are in a higher temperature regime than the head. Such parameters can be achieved using underfloor heating technology.

   

Critics of floor insulation emphasize the high cost of installing and operating the system. Some note that when using windows with heat-saving double-glazed windows and modern radiators, there is no need for warm floors.

It should be noted that the effectiveness of a warm floor in the kitchen largely depends on the correctness of its choice.When arranging the system, it is necessary to take into account the type of room (house, apartment, etc.), the presence of individual / centralized heating, the type of flooring (laminate, tiles, etc.), the thermal insulation characteristics of the building and other parameters.

Varieties of warm floors

There are several ways to install a warm floor. The most popular are water and electric floors.

Underfloor heating water in the kitchen is connected to the space heating system. In fact, this is a modern version of the familiar heating system on radiators. The main advantage of such systems is the possibility of using the existing coolant for heating. In terms of operation, this is the most economical option.

Water heat-insulated floor in the kitchen: photo

Disadvantages of water floors:

1. The possibility of arranging such a floor only in private houses. Installing a floor heating system in an apartment is illegal. Connecting an additional pipeline to a centralized heating system lowers the temperature of the coolant, which means it will become colder in neighboring apartments.
2. The installation of a water floor is associated with certain risks of flooding due to the sufficiently high pressure.

Electric floor heating is carried out using a special heating heat cable, which is mounted under the cover. The heating element is installed directly into the concrete screed, the thickness of which should be about 3-5 cm.

The main disadvantage of the cable floor is the duration of installation and the relative high cost of operation. Pluses of electric heating: high level of efficiency and the ability to use in different rooms.

Depending on the type of heating element, the following subspecies of warm floors are distinguished:

• film;
• rod;
• cable.

According to the method of electrical heating, such systems are classified into convection floors and coverings heated by infrared radiation.

Film underfloor heating is extremely easy to install. The film is laid under the floor covering and does not require the arrangement of a cement screed. Such characteristics allow to reduce installation time. Film "insulation" can be used for different types of floor coverings. Parquet, laminate and linoleum are used as the final floor.

Important! It is undesirable to lay a film warm floor under a tile or carpet. When using a wood covering, it is necessary to control the heating temperature - it should not exceed 28 ° С

The film floor is available in various designs:

1. Bimetallic heaters consist of two layers: the first is an aluminum alloy, the second is an alloy of copper with different elements.
2. Carbon film contains two layers of copper, carbon and lavsan elements. Usually these films are produced in rolls, which are freely cut into suitable lengths.

A special place among heating systems is occupied by infrared film floors. The operation of the coating is based on the principle of solar radiation (infrared spectrum). Radiation heats not the air itself, but the surrounding objects, which subsequently give off heat to the atmosphere. A distinctive feature of these floors is low energy consumption and significant cost savings during operation.

Rod floor heating consists of carbon rods, which are mounted in a thin cement-sand screed. Alternatively, this coating can be attached to tile adhesive. A significant advantage is the ability to use under any floor covering: ceramic tiles, linoleum, laminate, carpet, etc.

Cable underfloor heating is a special cable produced in the form of heating sections or a regular cable coil. The basis of such floors is a typical single-core or two-core cable.

Electrical systems

Warm floor in the kitchen: cable floor device diagram

A warm electric floor cake without fail includes:

• thermal insulation;
• a layer of rough screed;
• aluminum foil;
• metal mesh (sometimes this coating is neglected);
• heating cable;
• mounting tape for fixing the cable;
• cement-sand screed (2-5 cm);
• finishing.

In addition, it is necessary to provide for the regulation of the floor temperature and install a thermostat with a temperature sensor.

Electric underfloor heating in the kitchen: device

Electric floor heating technology

The first step is to calculate the area of ​​the heated surface. It is necessary to prepare a plan for the kitchen and mark the location of the stationary furniture and equipment. In this case, furniture with legs (tables, chairs) is not taken into account.

The useful heating area is equal to the difference between the total area of ​​the kitchen and the surface covered with stationary objects

The length of the heating section is calculated by multiplying the calculated heating area by the value of the specific power. Specific power indicator is normalized:

• not> 120 watts / m2 if the system is used as an auxiliary heating;
• not> 150 watts / sq.m., if the warm floor is used as the main source of heat.

Preparatory activities include dismantling the old flooring and leveling the base.

Electric cable installation procedure:

1. Preparing the site for the installation of the thermostat. Using a puncher, cut a niche in the wall for the thermostat box. Down the wall and floor, make a groove for a cable - a power cable, a sensor, etc. In the made channel, place a corrugated tube for a sensor so that the blind end of this corrugated tube is at a distance of about 6 cm from the wall. Fill the groove with plaster.
2. On the leveled subfloor, cover the reflective insulation with the foil side up, glue the joints of the canvas with tape.
3. Attach mounting tape to the thermal insulation layer to further fix the heating sections. The tape is attached to the base of the dowel with nails.
4. Lay the cable evenly and smoothly, avoiding cable crossings and breaks.
5. Pour the floor with concrete screed (3-5 cm).
6. Moisten the concrete subfloor periodically.
7. After the screed has completely “set” (about 28 days), the floor is tiled according to the standard technology.

Laying underfloor heating in the kitchen: video

Underfloor heating in the kitchen

Water floor device

The water floor is difficult to install, but if you wish and have building skills, it is quite possible to implement such a heating system.

The overall design includes the following elements:

1. Water heating boiler. The unit must have a power sufficient to heat the coolant during peak hours of operation of the circuits. Roughly, this is the total capacity of all heat-insulated floors, increased by 15-20%.
2. A circulation pump is needed if the area of ​​the room exceeds 120-150 sq.m.
3. Shut-off valves - mounted at the inlet / outlet of the heater in case of repair or maintenance of the "warm floor" system.
4. Collector - equipment responsible for the distribution of water in heating circuits, regulation and adjustment of underfloor heating. Devices with control valves allow you to adjust the water flow of each circuit, thereby achieving a more uniform heating of the entire house.
5. Pipes for laying underfloor heating. Usually use:
   polypropylene (preferably with fiberglass reinforcement to reduce linear expansion during temperature rise);
6. metal-plastic;
7. made of cross-linked polyethylene.

   

Important! Regardless of the material, the pipes must be able to withstand temperatures up to + 95 ° C and a system pressure of 10 bar. Optimum pipe diameter - 16-20 mm

Methods for laying water floors

Method 1. Concreting. It involves laying pipes on a prepared base and filling them with a concrete screed. The main disadvantages of the method: laboriousness of work and complexity of installation, large weight of the system.

Method 2. A flat option.The pipes through which the coolant will circulate are laid in the assembled flooring. A kind of frame is made of wooden blocks or plastic modules. The disadvantage of such a system is that the warm-up time increases.

Laying underfloor heating in the kitchen with your own hands: step by step instructions

Let's consider step by step how to make a warm floor in the kitchen by laying pipes in a screed:

1. Determine the location for the collector installation. Usually, the equipment is installed in a special cabinet built into the wall. The collector is placed so that the length of the pipes from each room is approximately equal. Approach of the device to the largest and longest contours is allowed. The main condition is installation above the level of a warm floor. Otherwise, problems may arise in the air extraction system.
2. Lay a layer of thermal insulation and fix a damper tape around the perimeter of the room.
3. Install reinforcement mesh. If special mats are used as thermal insulation, then the use of fittings is not required.
4. Lay out the pipeline in one of the ways: with a spiral, loops, snake, etc. The distance from the wall to the nearest pipe is at least 8 cm, the laying step is 10-40 cm. The pipeline is fixed to the reinforcement mesh with plastic clamps. In this case, it is important not to pinch the elements, since when heated, the pipe expands and can deform. The spacing of the fastening clamps is 1 m. The pipe turns are performed carefully, observing the requirements for the minimum permissible bending radius.

   

5. Connect the laid piping to the manifold using Euro cone systems or compression fittings. Connect the beginning of the heating circuit pipe to the supply outlet of the collector, the end of the pipe to the return collector. In that part of the pipe, which is located near the expansion joint, it is necessary to put on a corrugated tube.
6. Check the system. Supply water to the pipeline at a pressure of 5-6 bar. After checking (after 24 hours), carefully inspect the pipeline for possible leaks and expansions.
7. If the test run is successful, then you can start pouring the screed. It is carried out with pipes filled with water under operating pressure in them.
8. Leave the screed to dry completely for 28 days. Then finish the floor.

Recommendations of experts for the installation of underfloor heating in the kitchen

1. It is better to entrust the calculation and drafting of the project to professionals with experience in arranging a warm floor in the kitchen (reviews of the work of the performers can be found on the Internet). Professionals will competently calculate the length of the pipe, its power and installation step, taking into account many parameters and nuances. Independent miscalculations sometimes have errors that can lead to the impossibility of operating the entire system or a decrease in the efficiency of its work.

   

2. Equipment for underfloor heating must be selected of high quality, since it is very difficult and expensive to repair the system.
3. Before installing the underfloor heating, you need to make sure that the base is even. The maximum allowable differences are 5 mm.
4. Underfloor heating installation activities do not tolerate haste. It is important to comply with the recommended time for the hardening of the concrete screed.
5. For bonding and grouting, use the best flexible mixes that are ideal for underfloor heating.

General rules for installing insulation

"Pie" of the insulated wooden floor

Do-it-yourself floor insulation in a wooden house is done quickly and easily. To do everything right, you need to follow a certain sequence of work:

1. Arrangement of the subfloor on top of the log. In this case, almost any insulation can be applied. since it does not experience mechanical stress. It is not difficult to do it correctly: treat the rough boards or shields with an antiseptic, then lay the logs to which the material is nailed.
2. Installation of thermal insulation. It should fit snugly against the base.The mounting location depends on the type of material selected.
3. Steam insulation installation. This stage is mandatory if the floors will succumb to moisture, and a material that is weakly resistant to moisture will be used as thermal insulation.
4. Finishing the floor.

Floor insulation

After waterproofing the kitchen floor, we proceed to the floor insulation.

For insulation, we use sheets of extruded polystyrene foam, for example, Penoplex. Penoplex has a dense structure and a special edge. Installation is done without glue. It is advisable to displace adjacent Penoplex strips in order to separate the longitudinal seams (as in masonry).

Related article: Choosing a skirting board for your kitchen floor

What if the house has a low underground?

The insulation process in this case has some peculiarities. The fact is that you will not be able to attach insulation from below on the logs, since the height of the subfloor is small. Therefore, in most cases, the old flooring has to be removed. All work consists of the following stages:

• Remove the old flooring and baseboards in the ground floor rooms. If you do not want to replace the boards, then dismantle them as carefully as possible.
• Carefully examine the condition of the bar. If there are rotten elements, then they must be replaced. For fastening wooden parts, it is better to use galvanized self-tapping screws that do not corrode and rust.
• Screwing the support bar from the bottom of the lag.
• Blank boards for the installation of rough flooring. For the first, as well as for the second floor, an unedged board is suitable. The length of the elements should not exceed the step between the lags. It should be 2 cm smaller. This floor layer can be laid loosely.
• Installation of a rough cover. In this case, screwing the timber to the boards is not necessary.
• Laying the vapor barrier. If the house is built on an area where there is a high level of groundwater, then the area of ​​the first floor may suffer from exposure to excess moisture. You need to protect the floors with glassine or roofing material. This material must be overlapped, and the joints must be glued with construction tape.
• Laying the log of the finished floor. Further, insulation is made with mineral wool or other material.
• Laying another layer of waterproofing.
• Creation of a ventilation gap between the "pie" and the finished floor covering using counter battens.
• Installation of new flooring or old boards.

Electric heating installation

The amount of material that will be required during the heating work must be selected based on the floor area. It should be borne in mind that you need to heat only those places where stationary devices will not be installed (kitchen set, bathroom or sink).

You may be interested in: Floor insulation: using expanded polystyrene under the screed

The power of the electrical system must be selected no more than 180 W per 1 m². The total power consumption can be calculated using the formula:

P = S * 180, where:

• P is the total power consumption;
• S is the area of ​​the heated room.

Mats installation diagram.

Based on this figure, you need to purchase a cable of the required section, a temperature sensor and a thermostat. The shop consultant will help to make their choice. These devices will help to set and maintain the required temperature in the room in automatic mode.

Before laying the heating, it is necessary to free the floor from the old covering laid on it. After that, you need to cleanly remove all the resulting debris and treat the entire space with strengthening soil. It will help increase the adhesion of the tile to the screed. The next step is to lay the cement screed. To make it even, it is necessary to perform these works according to the level. On top, on the screed, you need to lay a layer of insulation (foam or polystyrene plates), the thickness of which should be 20 mm.

Next, you need to start laying the heating system and installing the thermostat.It must be fixed to any wall, at a height of 30-35 cm from the floor. When choosing a place where it will be mounted, you need to take into account the location of the furniture in the room. It is necessary that the regulator has free access and the ability to connect to the power supply. After completing these works, you need to check all connections with a tester. If everything is connected correctly, then there should be no short circuits. After finishing the installation of equipment, tiles are laid on it.

How to insulate floors over a high cellar?

Insulation of the second floor is carried out in the same way as in the previous instructions. All work is done quickly. As for the first floor, there are some nuances, especially if there is a cellar under the floor. In an old house, insulation should be started precisely with the inspection and processing of this place.

In order to do everything right, try to follow the following repair rules:

1. In this case, you can attach the insulation to the ceiling of the cellar. All work must be done from below. The first step will be to fix the waterproofing film.
2. Next, you will have to fasten the support bar or rails to the sides of the beams. If dampness is observed in the cellar, then use a galvanized profile instead of a bar. In this case, mineral wool insulation will be the best option. But it must be well protected from the influence of moisture.
3. Cut the insulation into pieces. Their width should be several millimeters larger than the pitch of the lag. This will make it possible to fix the thermal insulation well.
4. Fasten the cross bar from the bottom of the previously screwed one. It will help to securely fix the insulation.
5. Now attach another layer of waterproofing and proceed with the finishing of the cellar ceiling.

In the same way, insulation can be made from the side of the residential floor. The sequence of work is the same.

How floors are insulated with infrared heating

This method is the most modern. It consists in installing infrared mats, which act as heating elements. Despite the fact that this option is much more expensive than the previous ones, such insulation is mounted much faster. For its installation, no screed device or dismantling of the old coating is required.

Infrared mats require a flat surface. Therefore, it will be necessary to do the appropriate work. The floors are insulated with these elements directly under the tiles. The mats are attached to the base with glue. The minimum of "wet" processes and ease of installation make this method of home improvement the most preferable.

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