Infrared underfloor heating under tiles - installation options

Connecting wires

Electrical wiring diagram for underfloor heating

The connection of several strips of heating foil is done in parallel using a junction box. In the case of using a film with a grounding layer, the grounding wire is connected bypassing the thermostat (connection to the grounding layer is carried out using a separate terminal). It is recommended to use an 8-fold junction box with a minimum depth of 25 mm. After connecting the wires, perform a proof test of the system.

Gently lift the protective layer and insert one connector plate so that there is reliable contact with the busbar.

After connecting the connectors to the two copper rails, first squeeze the clips with your fingers, and then with the pliers.

Strip the end of the wire and clamp it securely into the barrel connector of the connector with pliers.

Insulate the copper busbars with 50 x 40 mm butyl rubber tape. Copper busbars with connected wires are insulated with two pieces (top and bottom).

The busbar sections free from connections are insulated with one piece of insulation.

It is necessary to thoroughly "wash" the contact point with your fingers, while the 25 mm wires should be covered with insulation.

The wires are laid along the perimeter of the room in the left 50 mm gap or in the groove cut out in the thermal insulation, starting from the film strip farthest from the back box. Secure the wires with special tape. Do not lay electrical wires over or under the heating foil. Route the wires from the heating foil to the thermostat or junction box.

Is it possible to mount a film floor under the tiles

To answer this question, it is necessary to take into account the recommendations regarding operation provided by the manufacturer. In particular, it says: "The product can be stacked under tiles, wood, laminate, linoleum, etc.".

Thin electric film underfloor heating under the tiles is installed quickly, does not "steal" free space and does not affect the quality of installation.

Since the heating system is resistant to moisture and atmospheric precipitation, you can lay the film outdoors, followed by facing with porcelain stoneware. This will permanently solve the problem of icing paths, heating the garage, etc.

Do-it-yourself laying of an infrared warm film floor under the tiles requires a certain professionalism and the availability of building material. Although the technology is fully and in detail described by the manufacturer, if in doubt about its capabilities, it is better to seek help from a specialist.

Features of laying the film floor

The process of laying a film underfloor heating under a tile differs in its specificity from installation under a laminate and linoleum. First of all, it is necessary to decide on which base the film warm floor will creep. Will a new screed be poured or an old rough base will be used.

Important! Installation of a film underfloor heating under the tiles should be carried out on a perfectly flat surface. So it can work correctly.

There is also another technology for laying film warm floors. First, the underfloor heating system is laid.On top, gently spread a plastic film, and on top of glass magnesite or gypsum fiber. From above, the installation of tiles is carried out. The surface of the sheets is preliminarily primed with concrete contact.

The technology of laying floor heating with a wet method is considered more reliable and durable. If gypsum-fiber sheets are used as a basis, then in case of moisture ingress, they can absorb it and collapse. As a result, the tile may begin to fall off the base. Worst of all, the tiles will simply crack and cannot be laid back.

Of course, the dry method is much easier and faster to implement. But if you are interested in durability, then you should opt for the wet method, where the new screed will be poured. It will perform several tasks at once: leveling the floor, transferring heat from the heating circuit of film heating and serving as a good basis for installing tiles.

To carry out the work, you must have the following material:

• Polyethylene.
• Heat insulating material for the heating circuit.
• Electric wire.
• Thermostat for temperature control.
• Bituminous tape.
• Connecting clips.
• Heating film.

As for the tool, the following set is needed here:

• Perforator.
• Screwdriver Set.
• Pliers.
• Construction knife.
• A hammer.
• Electric tester and so on.

This is the basic toolbox. However, during all the work, another tool may be required. But it's worth noting right away that you definitely won't need any special tools.

Necessary materials

Standard complete set of film underfloor heating system

• Thermal film in a roll;
• Contact clamps;
• Set of wires;
• Self-adhesive bituminous insulation.

• Heat-reflective insulation;
• Heat-resistant polyethylene film;
• Thermostat and mounting box for it. It is selected based on the selected power of the underfloor heating and the type of installation (built-in or overhead);
• Additional thermal sensor, if necessary (one will be included with the thermostat);
• Double sided tape;
• Additional wire for mounting the thermostat. It may also be needed if you are installing several sets of underfloor heating in one room (you will need to add their power to calculate the cross-section). The wire cross-section is selected depending on the power of the system and the material of the purchased wire (see table).

Wire section, mm2	Maximum allowable power consumption with copper wire, kW	Maximum allowable power consumption with aluminum wire, kW
1,5	3,5	2
2,5	5,5	3,5
4	7	5,5
6	9	7

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for laying a film underfloor heating under the tiles

Step 1. We vacate the room. We dismantle the old coating, if necessary. We clean the floor. Step 2. Level the floor surface. Step 3. Prepare a place for the thermostat. Thinking over where the wires for connecting to the film will go. Step 4. Laying the substrate - a heat-insulating material, for example, a cork. Step 5. Lay out the infrared film. Step 5. We connect the sheets of thermal film to each other according to the scheme Step 6. We connect the entire circuit to the thermostat and electricity

Step 7. Mount the thermostat into the wall Step 8. Check the performance in test mode. Step 9. Vapor barrier. This is a polyethylene film with holes, an insulating material that works in one direction, so it breathes. At the joints, we need mounting tape. Step 9. Next, a layer of gypsum fiber or glass magnesite sheet. Step 10. Next, tile adhesive, which cannot interact with the film. Step 11. Directly the tile itself.

How to mount and connect a film warm floor with your own hands

2017-12-22 Evgeny Fomenko

The technology for installing a film underfloor heating is perhaps one of the simplest among all types of underfloor heating.And, without having special skills, it is quite possible to do it yourself, without resorting to the help of specialists. It is often used as the only source of heating, but if you live in latitudes with harsh winters, it may not be enough.

The infrared floor can be used under almost any floor covering. Regardless of the surface under which we are going to lay it, the materials used do not change much. But there are slight differences. For example, if we lay under linoleum or carpet, then in order not to damage the film, we will have to use solid cushioning materials.

While under the tile you will have to make a cement screed on a reinforcing base. These floors are installed without preliminary surface preparation, it is enough just to carefully insulate the floor so that the heat rises up and does not go into the floor. Let's take a closer look at how to properly lay an electric floor heating under various materials.

So, for a parquet board or under a laminate, the pie looks like this:

• Primary floor.
• Heat-reflecting material.
• Thermal film layer.
• Polyethylene film.
• Plywood or fiberboard. These plates are used to protect the heating element from mechanical damage.
• Linoleum.

Well, and, perhaps, the most time consuming option is to lay it under the tiles. But for all the complexity of installation, this option is the most effective heating method. Because the tile heats up quickly and can keep the temperature longer.

Infrared film warm floor

In order to understand exactly how a high-quality tape floor differs from other varieties on the market.

Let's take a closer look at its main distinguishing characteristics:

They are absolutely safe for humans, the element that conducts heat in them is carbon. Thanks to this system, you will be able to create comfort and keep warm in your home, your loved ones will be less sick and you will forget about frozen feet forever.

This type of heating is more useful for our body, infrared radiation is widely used in many areas, for example, in medicine. How much does it cost - this is perhaps one of the most expensive heating options, but it fully justifies its cost.

Installation of underfloor heating from foil

In order to understand how this system works, you need to understand in detail its structure. It is made of a dense thin film (polyester), divided into segments and filled with carbon paste (carbonaceous), applied by spraying. In a more expensive version, it fills the entire space completely and has a pasty consistency.

When exposed to electricity, it emits infrared radiation. The current is supplied through copper / silver wires that are connected to the power supply. The degree of heating is controlled by a thermostat connected to the floor. And he, in turn, reads the readings from the temperature sensor, which is located on the outside of the film.

To save electrical resources, it is more profitable to connect an automatic thermostat, it independently determines the most favorable operating time. This is currently relevant as electricity prices have risen dramatically.

The package includes the following components:

• Thermal insulation material that directs heat outward, and does not warm up the ceiling of the neighbors.
• Gasket material.
• Installation diagram

Consider the installation scheme for a film warm floor, namely, how to lay it on your own, I do not seek help from specialists, we will figure out which side to lay.

For a good connection, you need to do the following:

The entire installation, subject to the instructions, will take about 3 hours if the floor is laid under linoleum or laminate.If you have not dealt with an electrician up to this point, it is better to seek the help of a qualified technician. Since, not all errors can be corrected, and the material is quite expensive.

Pros and cons of film underfloor heating

Let's talk about the positive qualities of these designs:

• Convenient and very simple installation of a film underfloor heating under the tiles. There is no need to make a concrete screed.
• The cost of the work is low.
• Installation of infrared underfloor heating takes only a few hours.
• This system can be installed under carpet, laminate, ceramic tiles, parquet, etc.
• The thickness of the film is not more than half a millimeter, therefore it does not affect the calculation of the thickness of the floor finish.
• The heating of the elements and the termination of heating occurs very quickly due to the low inertness of heating.
• The coating can withstand high loads (suitable for use in offices, public buildings, gyms, etc.).
• The heat is evenly distributed throughout the space.
• Film underfloor heating under the tiles will warm up the room, reducing energy consumption by about 25-30% when compared with other types of warm floors.
• Heating functions can be integrated into the smart home system.
• The electric field is generated during the operation of infrared systems, which means that its intensity is low.
• There is no negative impact on the health of people in the room.
• Removes unpleasant odors from the air.
• Maintains an optimal level of moisture content in the room. Also, in the process of using such a coating, the atmosphere in the room is ionized.
• It is generally accepted that these heating systems are capable of neutralizing allergic reactions.
• Installing a film underfloor heating under the tiles is as easy as dismantling. Therefore, homeowners have the opportunity to remove the flooring at any time and install the film elsewhere.

Manufacturers do not often write about the weaknesses of their products. And strong qualities are sometimes exaggerated.

Recommended articles on this topic:

• Warm floor on the balcony
• Stages of repair in an apartment
• Turnkey cosmetic repairs

In order for the installation of a film warm floor under the tiles to go without problems, you should pay attention to some of the nuances:

• Much more time declared by the manufacturer may be needed for the installation of the film floor, even if an experienced specialist will work on it, observing all the recommended technologies.
• Problems can arise with the correct connection of the silver contacts, although the layout and resizing of the film is straightforward.
• For a good connection of the floor elements, it is necessary to perform the clamping correctly. Otherwise, you will have to use a new contact.
• The installation of such a floor must be carried out on a flat base so that rough irregularities do not cause a rupture of the film after laying the structure.
• Although the film underfloor heating for tiles is less than one millimeter thick, the base for it can be 20–35 mm high if chipboard, plywood, plastic wrap, underlay or other materials are used.
• High reliability can only be achieved by following absolutely exactly all installation instructions and performing work at a professional level. Otherwise, breakdowns cannot be avoided.
• It is possible to obtain savings of about 20% on heating costs when comparing this system with other types of structures, provided that the premises are well insulated and there is good centralized heating.
• When using traditional district heating, you should not rely on a good level of air humidity. Although the film floor does not dry it out, it does not moisturize it either.
• According to the reviews of the owners of the film floor heating, it can be assumed that this system really contributes to the ionization of the air and the elimination of unpleasant odors. Ions block the molecules of substances that are the source of such troubles.This property is usually used on an industrial scale when cleaning upholstered furniture, clothing, etc.

The fact of the anti-allergenic effect of the film underfloor heating has not been proven. Of course, people suffering from this ailment feel much better in humid and ionized air than in a dry and dusty room.

Types and types of fastening of quartz vinyl panels

There are several ways to connect tiles:

1. With glue locks. Each tile has 4 adhesive strips: 2 outside and 2 inside. Thanks to them, the panels are connected to each other. The gap between them is invisible, even by touch it is very difficult to determine. It is necessary to lay this type of panel on a flat surface. In the reviews, many write that it is not necessary to remove the old coating, the main thing is that the base is even.
2. Installation with glue. In this case, the quartz vinyl tile does not have any locks and is attached with special glue to the base of the floor. This material is attached only to a perfectly leveled surface, preferably to a cement screed treated with a primer mortar.
3. Glue method. The entire back of the quartz vinyl panel is coated with a compound that provides adhesion to all types of surfaces. According to reviews, most use this method of fixing tile material.
4. Groove method. It looks like a tile connection, where there is a spike on one side and a groove on the other. An even subfloor surface is also required for this coating.
5. Lock connection. The basis for it is plastic, with spikes located along the edge so as to be fixed in special locks that are located on the adjacent panel. For the installation of tiles with a lock connection, a flat surface is required, since this material is not flexible and plastic enough.

The process of installing tiles on a heated floor

The underfloor heating system for absolutely all floor coverings is composed of the following elements:

• material for thermal insulation at the bottom of the structure to direct heat and cut off cold surfaces;
• special pipes for the heat carrier;
• reinforcing mesh and pipe fastening elements;
• concrete screed;
• vinyl tiles for flooring.

Calculations of the location of the contours of heating pipes are made in advance. Their number is limited by the capacity of the heating boiler for heating a specific volume of liquid. One circuit - no more than twenty-five running meters of the heating pipe.

They propose to do the work in the following order:

1. A thermal insulation layer is laid over the surface of the rough coating, and a damper tape is applied to compensate for the thermal expansion of concrete.
2. For fastening pipes - guides. In the usual case, it is enough to lay the reinforcing mesh and fasten the pipes with clamps every twenty to twenty 5 cm. The fastening must secure the pipe, leaving room for thermal expansion.
3. Pipe installation near the walls is carried out at a distance of 70 mm.
4. The procedure for laying pipes provides for the outlet of the ends to the distribution manifold.
5. After pipe-laying work, a tightness test is carried out and the temperature of the liquid is brought to 20 - 25 degrees, a screed is made.
6. After the final screed has dried, prepare and lay the PVC tiles.
7. The surface of the screed is thoroughly cleaned of dirt, flaws are eliminated, and dust is removed.
8. Leave the tile indoors at a temperature of 20 degrees for a period of at least 12 hours so that it takes on size and straightens out.
9. Tiles with a locking fastening system and self-adhesive base will not be difficult during the installation process. Set from the far room corner with a ledge of each row by 1/3 or 1/2 lamellae. In this case, the projections of the following tiles are inserted into the grooves of the locks without excessive efforts.Self-adhesive tiles are straightened during installation to release air under the product and firmly adhere the coating.
10. The tile, the installation process of which is planned with the use of glue, requires a scrupulous selection of it, taking into account the operating temperature conditions.

Styling option

Having become familiar with the conditions and requirements for the installation process of the hydraulic system "underfloor heating", the owners of the premises will easily select the material that is suitable for floor coverings

from the point of view of aesthetics and practical use to solve the issue of energy saving. Of interest is the installation process of the underfloor heating system.
PVC tiles
... The primary costs for the purchase of equipment and installation work will be more than justified in a short time.

One of the options for laying a final vinyl tile flooring is shown in the material below.

Laying vinyl tiles

Warm floor ‘target =“ _ blank ”>’)

What is needed for a warm floor

How to make a warm floor from heating Warm water floor. Underfloor heating installation

The set of materials depends primarily on the type of installation: dry installation or "wet" - in the screed. But what is needed in any case is:

• Thermal insulation. Moreover, the materials are laid out both on the floor (the recommended material is expanded polystyrene) and along the perimeter along the walls. A damper tape is rolled along the walls. This material is required. It compensates for thermal expansion of the screed and also reduces heat loss through the walls. Rolls around the perimeter of the walls, sold in rolls.

  Damping tape compensates for the expansion of the underfloor heating screed when heated

• In most systems, it is recommended to install a heat reflective layer. It is optional, but retailers say it reduces overhead: heat directed downward is reflected and directed into the room.
• Fastening system. It is different for different elements: for film and roll electric floors, it can be scotch tape or staples, for cables and pipes - special fasteners of different types.

  What is needed for a warm floor depends on the system and on the chosen installation method

This is the end of the common materials for any warm floor. Next came the differences depending on the type of styling.

Dry mounting method

If the installation is dry, a waterproofing or vapor barrier is placed on the heating element. What exactly is selected for the finish coat. What then - also depends on the coverage:

• the hard coating can be laid immediately (board) or on the substrate (laminate and parquet);
• for a soft topcoat (linoleum and carpet), a rigid base (gypsum fiber board, fiberboard, etc.) is required.

Screed laying

For laying in a screed, it is advisable to lay a reinforcing mesh on the heating element. The mesh can be metal or polymer. For electrical cables or mats, a thin mesh is sufficient, which is used for finishing work. For pipes of a water-heated floor, something more serious is required, for example, a metal mesh made of wire with a thickness of 2-3 mm. Here and the screed layer is thicker (at least 5 cm versus 2 cm for electric heaters), and the pipes themselves can "walk".

The "cake" of a water heated floor and an electric one is sometimes different, sometimes not - it depends on the heating element

In one review, the owner wrote that with his feet he felt the floor bend. And all because he was trying to save money on glue and reinforcing mesh. I didn’t put the netting at all (there’s no need for the tiles), but I didn’t put glue 2 cm, but a little more than 1 cm. Probably not the most pleasant feeling - a “fluttering” floor. In addition, it is quite possible to damage the heating element and "get" to replace the floor entirely. In general, you need to approach from the standpoint of reasonable sufficiency and not economize at the expense of performance.

In general terms, what may need to be considered, now let's talk in more detail about materials, their thickness and styling options.

Electric cable underfloor heating and PVC tiles

They are a special mesh (cable mat) with a heating cable attached to it in a snakelike manner.
A cheaper option is also used, which implies the installation of only a cable that is fixed to the base. The system is heated by transforming electrical energy into heat.

It is impossible to lay PVC tiles directly on such a structure, since the installation of the latter requires an even base. Therefore, if you choose this type of underfloor heating, you will need to hide it under a concrete screed.

The advantages of this system include a more budgetary installation (compared to a water circuit), temperature uniformity along the entire length, the ability to install in rooms where the temperature drops to zero degrees (country houses, etc.).

Tile and porcelain stoneware are very practical materials, but they are cold for walking barefoot. The underfloor heating system solves this problem and also provides additional room heating. At first glance, an infrared heated floor under the tiles is best suited, since it has the thinnest heating elements. But in reality, the film poses more problems than it does when laid in tile adhesive. In this article, we will look at how you can install infrared floor heating with your own hands.

Fast navigation through the article

Choosing a floor heating system

In modern underfloor heating systems, either the electrical resistance of the elements ("electrical systems") or the fluids flowing in the pipes ("hydraulic systems") are used to heat the floor. All heating types can be installed as the main building system or as localized floor heating for warmth and comfort.

Such a system has tremendous advantages.

The warm film floor, laid under the tiles, provides the room with the required temperature, it is economical, very easy to install and safe. The tile is also considered a super floor covering, because it is durable, practical and does not require much maintenance. Ceramic tiles are an efficient heat absorber with excellent thermal conductivity. The thickness of the coating does not affect the floor level at all, no toxins during installation are also a huge plus, and installation is done very quickly and quite simply.

Carbon strip film that produces infrared heating is a completely new product. The thermal conductivity of this film is much higher than that of any analogue, but the energy consumption is much less.

The system is so easy to use that sometimes it is used as a mobile one: it is laid under the carpet in winter and cleaned together in summer. The film can be mounted not only on the floor, but also in any other place: on the walls and even on the ceiling.

Infrared film warm floor

Before deciding to install a warm floor, you need to weigh all the pros and cons.

pros

1. Modern and high-tech heating.
2. Providing warm and cozy stone and ceramic tile floors.
3. Indoor radiators can be replaced, saving walls and floor space for high-end finishes.
4. Installation in a new building is possible.

Minuses

1. Slow heating time compared to other forms of heating.
2. Not all heating systems provide complete radiator replacement.

First things first!

The warm film floor should be carefully examined. Damage sometimes occurs during storage or transportation, and sometimes during installation. Therefore, it is highly recommended to check the film with a digital ohmmeter after purchase. The check should be done three times: after unpacking, installing and laying the tiles.

Digital ohmmeter

Locked Quartz Vinyl Tiles

When laying interlocking tiles on a "warm floor", the condition must be met - leave expansion gaps along all walls from 5 to 10 mm. The gaps allow the tile to move as it expands so that the joints are not damaged.

Castle tiles Art
East
Recommended for use with electrical heating systems, it is not advisable to use water heating. Heating temperature no more than 28 ° C. In general, the interlocking tiles are sensitive to temperature extremes and change their size. The temperature gap must be at least 1 cm. This also applies to installations with "warm floors", and applications on balconies, rooms on the south side, where heating in the sun can occur.

The manufacturer advises against using any kind of underlay for the interlocking tiles, both during normal installation and when laying on a warm floor.

The brand has Art
East
there is one more
collectionARTSTONE
33/42 class, which stands out for its structure. This tile uses a rigid SPC board as the load-bearing base. This slab is a Stone Polymer Composite.

Unlike quartz-vinyl laminate with WPC (Wood Polymer Composite) board, STONE tiles from ART EAST:

78% consists of calcium carbonate and does not contain a blowing agent, wood flour and plasticizers;

thinner, but more durable, more resistant to dimensional retention with changes in humidity and temperature;

more durable due to the same denser structure.

ART STONE SPC is a stone-polymer tile with locks, the superiority of which over floors with WPC slabs has been confirmed by laboratory tests. All these characteristics make the Stone collection tiles the most suitable material for "warm floors" than other PVC interlocking tiles.

Tests show that ART STONE can withstand temperatures above 28 ° C. But the brand's representative recommends that you do not take risks and use this limitation during operation. Art Stone castle tiles can be used with any kind of floor heating systems.

PVC castle tiles Floor
Click
- in the composition of 30% quartz. Compared to other quartz vinyl coatings, it is soft. Floor Click quartz vinyl laminate with "underfloor heating" changes its size and can also expand when installed in rooms with intense sunlight (south-facing, with floor-to-ceiling windows, etc.). When laying, it is imperative to leave a gap of 1 cm. It is also advisable to make expansion joints under the sills at the entrances to the rooms and every 8-10 meters of continuous canvas. Use a 1.5mm or 1mm LVT underlay. It is not recommended to lay on infrared heating, tiles can rise at the joints.

Castle tile collection Decoria

- the material is hard and quite stable, contains up to 70% quartz sand. The manufacturer advises to use a substrate when laying on a concrete screed, otherwise the floors will start to crunch. Permitted to use with heating systems, including film. Use with water systems where the temperature can exceed 28 degrees is not desirable.

It is possible to lay the decor interlocking tiles with or without expansion joints (sills).

Tiles Alpine
Floor
locks can be placed on heating systems. It is better to use a cable type to regulate the temperature and keep it no higher than 28 ° C. A gap around the perimeter of 8-10 mm is required.

Installation of infrared underfloor heating

The substrate must be clean and dry. There should be no stones, screws, pieces of wire or reinforcement on the floor.

Step 1 Before laying an infrared warm floor under the tiles, you should draw up a plan of the room with the proposed places for placing the overall furniture. On it you need to draw a layout for the warm floor. Mark the layout of the infrared floor on the concrete base, stepping 40 cm from the wall.

Step 2 Install the heat-reflecting backing by cutting it into the required pieces. All joints of the heat insulator must be glued with tape, gluing it to the floor along the edges. Lay a warm floor on top, cutting off the necessary pieces from the roll.Spaces of 5 to 10 mm should be left between the strips of infrared floor heating. The stripes, under no pretext, should overlap each other. At these intervals, tape the strips to the foil insulation film. Along the edges of the infrared floor tape where the copper bus is located, install the terminal clamps where the electrical connections are located.

Step 3 The clamps should be clamped firmly with pliers. The protrusions on the terminals must necessarily push through the plastic, thus providing the Sami with reliable contact with the copper strip. Strip the ends of the installation wire and insert into the terminals, crimping them thoroughly. Perform a parallel electrical connection of all pieces of the warm floor (which have been cut) to each other. With pieces of bitumen tape, glue the terminals on both sides, carefully covering the terminals and the bare ends of the wires. The bare ends of the copper bus should also be insulated.

Step 4 At the exit points to the thermostat, connect the wires of the required length. Place the temperature sensor with the wire to be connected to it on the infrared floor film. Cover everything from above with plastic wrap, carefully gluing it with tape. Roll out the reinforcing mesh on top of the film so that its edges go beyond the dimensions of the infrared floor to bond the screed with the concrete base of the floor.

Step 5 Prepare the required screed solution. Thin screed the floor of the ceramic tile, carefully leveling the mortar. Its thickness should be between 8 and 10 mm. After it has completely dried, you can start gluing the tiles.

By observing all these rules, you will be able to avoid the most common mistakes. And the installed infrared warm floor under the ceramic tiles will serve for many years.

• The surface of the base must be perfectly flat. On the floor slabs, a high-quality concrete screed must be made according to the level;
• When performing work, use only plastic reinforcing mesh, in no case metal;
• Make sure that the film does not overlap the seam joints or heat-reflecting floors. Otherwise, a decrease in the insulation level or a short circuit may occur;
• Remember that heat-reflecting material must be installed with the metallized side up. The thickness of the material should not be more than 3 mm.
• Advice. You can turn on the infrared underfloor heating only after the screed and tile adhesive are completely dry, since the solution may dry unevenly. Also, the formation of voids and cracks in the screed is not excluded. Turn on the infrared underfloor heating under the tiles not earlier than 28 days after installation.

Similar materials

Due to the small thickness of the IR underfloor heating - only 0.4 mm, the height of the room after installing the entire system does not significantly decrease, therefore it is often used for rooms with low ceilings and laying under tiles. The principle of operation is as follows: heat is released in the infrared heating element, as a result of which the temperature of the surrounding objects rises, and from them, in turn, the air begins to heat up.

Advantages of a warm floor

Below we will consider perhaps the simplest underfloor heating - an ik floor for tiles.

Its advantages are as follows:

1. The air in the room does not lose its freshness, because this type of heating does not affect it in any way.
2. An infrared warm floor under the tiles, emitting long wavelengths, heats not only the surface of the floor itself, but also the entire body of a person who is currently walking on it.
3. This method of transferring heat allows it to be re-released from previously heated objects, which increases the overall temperature in the room even more.
4. The content of negative ions in the air increases by at least 4 times.
5. During operation, the infrared film does not emit dust, noise and vibration.
6. The amount of generated electromagnetic radiation is so small that it can be neglected.
7. This type of heating is perceived by a person much more pleasantly at the initial low temperatures in the room than in the case of water heating.

So what is a film infrared heat-insulated floor laid under the tiles? By and large, infrared heating consists of a thin film 0.3-1 mm thick, equipped with an electrically conductive element inside. Methods for installing an infrared warm floor under a tile will be described below.

Installation of infrared underfloor heating under the tiles

Let us consider how the process of installing an infrared floor of the LamaHeat company with a wet method is carried out. This is a special kind of IR floor that looks like a fine mesh and is great for wet installation.

Step 1. The subfloor surface is thoroughly cleaned of debris. Then a lavsan heat-reflecting substrate is laid on it. Its individual strips are connected to each other with scotch tape.

Laying the lavsan heat-reflecting substrate

Step 2. Next, a special mounting IR mesh fabric is laid, which is excellent for wet mounting.

Laying mesh fabric

Step 3. This canvas is connected to the power grid using special terminals and wires. Terminals with wires inserted into them are clamped with pliers.

The terminal is clamped with pliers

Step 4. The wire connections are insulated with pieces of bitumen insulation on both sides.

Pieces of bituminous insulation are used

Step 5. With the help of a clerical knife, recesses are cut out on the surface of the thermal insulation for laying wires in them.

Cut-out for laying the wire

Step 6. The ends of the IR cloth, where the wires are not connected, are necessarily insulated.

The end of the wire is insulated

Step 7. A layer of self-leveling floors is poured over the IR mesh. The layer is carefully leveled and dried.

The self-leveling floor is poured

Step 8. Tiles are laid on the self-leveling floor layer. The tile is fixed to the surface with tile adhesive applied with a notched trowel.

Laying tiles

Prices for IR warm floor film

infrared warm floor

Video - Installation of IR films under the tiles

Underfloor heating installation

Laying the underfloor heating water circuit on an insulating material
When installing the underfloor heating system under PVC floor tiles, pipes laid in a screed are used. The installation process is as follows:

1. The concrete base is cleaned of debris; if necessary, local repairs are performed.
2. The overlap is leveled with construction self-leveling mixtures.
3. An insulating material is laid on the base with a foil layer facing up.
4. A damper tape is fixed around the perimeter of the room.
5. The pipes are laid according to the chosen scheme - "snail" or "snake". Special plastic hooks are used to fix the contours. Also, pipes can be laid on a reinforcing mesh, to which they are attached with plastic braids.
6. The system is connected to a manifold, filled with water and checked for functionality.
7. Pipes are poured with a coupler, after turning off the system. It will be possible to turn it on only after the solution has completely dried.

If pouring the screed is not possible, for example, on a wooden base, the pipes are laid dry. In the boardwalk, channels are cut out for pipes, and after their laying, a flat plywood base is mounted under the quartz-vinyl tiles.

Which warm floor is better

On the construction market, there are several options for organizing a warm floor in rooms - these are water and electric systems, moreover, the latter are of two types - cable and film. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, which can significantly affect the final choice of the owner of the house.And all the nuances should be taken into account even at the stage of designing the design and renovation of premises.

The main types of warm floors

Water floors are a system of pipes through which hot water flows from a centralized heating system or from autonomous boilers. Such floors are usually equipped with a screed, but there are options that can be equipped without pouring cement mixtures.

Water heat-insulated floor

Installation diagram of a water-heated floor

On a note! Due to the need to fill the screed, the ceiling height in the room is reduced by at least 7-10 cm.Also, water floors cannot always be settled in apartments located in houses of the old fund, due to the impossibility of connecting to the centralized heating system (the load on it will be too great ).

An electric cable floor is a system created from a heating cable laid on a rough base and also covered with a screed. Sometimes the cable can be laid without grouting. Such a floor works, as you might guess, from the mains.

Electric cable floor

Infrared floors are also electrical systems, only the base is heated by infrared radiation. The system consists of thin film mats laid on the floor and generating heat. Typically, such floors are laid on top of a poured screed. One of the main advantages of using IR floors is the absence of a significant rise in the floor level due to the absence of the need to fill the screed.

IR film for underfloor heating

Underfloor heating and PVC tiles

It is a complex, closed structure consisting of pipes, a pump, a distribution manifold, valves, fittings, an air vent, and fasteners.
One of the main advantages of this model is the minimum heat loss. In addition, it is environmentally friendly, does not create electromagnetic radiation (unlike electric floors).

Most often they are installed in private houses, cottages, since the installation of a heating boiler is necessary. In apartments - hydraulic compatibility with the pre-installed heat exchange system of the room is required.

Water models are demanding on the thermal conductivity of finishing materials. In this context, PVC tiles are the best choice.

The disadvantages include the risk of leakage, labor-intensive installation.

Vinyl adhesive tiles

Vinyl tile is a fairly soft material. When heated, the tile expands greatly. Resizing can be affected not only by the floor heating system, but also by exposure to direct sunlight. Still, some manufacturers consider it possible to use their vinyl tiles and floor heating systems.

For example, a company Tarkett

gives the following instructions:

Do not install Art Vinyl tiles on a heating system that does not ensure that there is no condensation on the substrate.

Avoid the heating temperature of the base surface above 27 ° C.

Before installing modular tiles, the heating system is turned off 3-4 days before the start of work.

Installation is carried out at a room temperature of 15-28 ° C, optimally at 20 ° C.

The heating system is connected no earlier than 72 hours after the end of the installation.

Experience has shown that when heated above 27 ° C, Tarkett, Forbo vinyl tiles become soft, therefore we, as experts, do not recommend laying vinyl tiles on a “warm floor”. We believe that this material can diverge at the joints and deform under the influence of heat.

Types of warm floors

The weather in the house ... is determined by the warmth ...
There are several types of underfloor heating, and the very first of the underfloor heating systems is a water floor. It works on the principle of conventional hot water heating and is connected to a heating boiler.

Installing a water floor with your own hands, even according to the instructions, was a rather laborious process, so soon it was replaced by more practical and modern technologies. Let's consider each option separately.

Electric underfloor heating:

1. Cable. Most often, this is a high-impedance single cable that is heated by electricity.
2. Rod. The core of the bar structure is carbon rods.
3. Film. The technology implies heat transfer of floors by thermal conduction of infrared radiation or convection. Most often, infrared radiation is still used for heating a film warm floor, which is why they are called infrared warm floor.

There are two types of film systems:

1. Carbon fiber. The basis is a lavsan film. Carbon fiber or a thin layer of graphite acts as a heating element.
2. Bimetallic. A thin copper-aluminum layer is the heating element of this film system, it is enclosed in a polyurethane film.

Laying the film floor under the tile with your own hands

At the initial stage, preparatory work is carried out. The surface is cleared of debris and leveled. The thickness of the underfloor heating can be up to 1.5 cm.The approximate sequential layer of the materials to be laid is as follows:

• heat-reflecting substrate - 2-3 mm;
• infrared film - 0.4-0.5 mm;
• painting net - up to 2 mm;
• a layer of concrete mortar (or tile adhesive).

You immediately need to decide on:

• the location of the thermostat;
• efficient distribution of the film under the tiles.

The installation of a warm floor begins with the installation of a heat-reflecting substrate. The best option would be to use strips, the size of which is 0.6 m each. If you purchase a wide material, it should be cut off.

An infrared film is laid on top of the substrate. There are such requirements when performing this work:

• stationary furniture should not be placed on the film (it can lead to burnout of the system);
• the film should cover up to 70% of the area in the room;
• the presence of an indent from the walls at the level of 10-12 cm;
• the film is not overlapped.

It is more expedient to distribute the film along the maximum length of the room. The marked heating material is cut off. It is recommended to cut pieces of film in places where there is no graphite layer. If, nevertheless, it is necessary to cut it off along the graphite layer, then this place is subsequently insulated with scotch tape or electrical tape. The film is attached to the substrate with adhesive tape.

Next, you need to start connecting the film floor

Particular attention is paid to the correct installation of the thermostat and temperature sensor. Immediately it is worth making a reservation that one thermostat will be able to normally "serve" a room with an area of ​​12-15 m2

It is installed next to the supplied wiring.

The cable is fastened to the film using copper clamps. The degree of reliability of the connections is checked using the halves of the clamps, which must be in contact with each other. Bitumen tape and silicone sealant are used to isolate the clamps.

While the sealant dries, the thermostat is mounted. When using an overhead device, the cable is led outside the wall and placed in a plastic box. If the thermostat is built-in, then a hole is hollowed out in the wall for it and grooves are made for the cable.

The thermal sensor is mounted under the film. For this, a groove is made in the base, and the sensor itself is placed in a corrugated tube. The sensor wire is laid in such a way that it is located directly under the tiles.

The thermostat is securely attached to the wall and connected to the electrical cable. Foil tape is glued obliquely to the film. To ground the floor, one of its ends is connected to a wire.

With the help of a test switch-on of the heating system, its operability is checked. All sections should warm up for 5-8 minutes.Using a tester, the cuts and joints of the film are checked.

Further, the underfloor heating is laid in the following sequence:

• holes are made;
• dowels are inserted into them;
• the painting net is attached with self-tapping screws;
• a thin and uniform primary concrete screed is created;
• complete drying of the screed occurs;
• the last check of the functioning of the warm floor is carried out;
• a fixing screed is applied;
• after it dries, tiles are laid.

Screwing in self-tapping screws when attaching the painting net should be done very carefully. They can damage the surface of the film or contacts, which will cause an interruption in the electrical circuit. After the final fixation of the mesh, it is necessary to test the underfloor heating.

When laying the film floor, it is prohibited:

• carry out work at high humidity and air temperature below 0 ° C;
• use nails as fasteners;
• connect the film without grounding;
• bend it at an angle of 90º on an area up to 5 cm long;
• install the film in close proximity to other heating devices.

In order to avoid mechanical damage to the film, it is recommended to carry out installation work in soft shoes. You can use the infrared warm floor after about a month, when the concrete base under the tiles is completely dry.

Video on the installation of the film floor:

Infrared underfloor heating under the tiles: installation features

Installation of infrared floors under tiles is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. But there are several nuances that are important to take into account. First you need to worry about the materials and tools that you may need for the job. It can be a heat-reflecting substrate, directly the IR film itself in the required amount, tape for insulating wires, tiles and glue for it, scotch tape, corrugated tube, drywall, contact clamps, polyethylene, wires for connection, scissors, etc.

Infrared floor - installation

For laying both tiles and infrared heating systems, you need a flat base. Therefore, it must be cleaned of debris and inspected for damage and protrusions. There should not be any relief on it - all cracks are repaired, and it is recommended to grind off the bulges.

Also, the preliminary work on the installation of the IR floor system includes the creation of a scheme for laying the IR film and the placement of various elements such as a thermostat. In this case, the location of large-sized furniture and the place where the film will not be mounted should be taken into account. It is important to remember that all wires going from the heating system to the thermostat must be laid in a corrugation and a groove punched into the wall. However, it is not always necessary to gouge the walls. Sometimes the wires are laid in a narrow plastic channel that is attached to the wall surface.

Attention! It is important to work with IR heating film carefully, as it is quite easy to damage it. And they cut it only along clearly marked cutting lines. Cutting the film elsewhere can render it unusable.

How to cut infrared heating film

All installation work must be carried out at an air temperature above 0 degrees, as well as at a humidity of no more than 60%. It is also important to be sure to ground the entire system. Particular attention is paid to the insulation of contacts, as well as possible places of damage to the film.

Table. Types of IR film mounting.

View	Description
Dry	It is used for installation on the surface of the IR film, laminate, carpet. It is used for the installation of tiles, but rarely. It implies careful leveling of the surface, laying the thermal insulation material and directly the film itself, then the installation of a protective film layer (polyethylene), drywall sheets and directly the tile itself, which is fixed with glue.In this case, the film is not exposed to contact with caustic substances and will last a long time. But the height of the base in this case turns out to be quite significant, which is not always relevant. In addition, this method of work will cost more.
Wet	It is used for laying tiles, tiles, stone, etc. The so-called classic method. The work will cost less than dry installation, but it is much more difficult. In this case, the surface is also prepared, then a heat reflector is laid on which the IR film is mounted. Then it is covered with a polyethylene film, reinforced and filled with a mixture for self-leveling floors. Ceramic tiles are mounted using the classical method (with glue) on top of this layer after it has dried. The underfloor heating system can be put into operation about a week after laying the tiles.

Benefits of using quartz vinyl flooring and underfloor heating

1. Thermal conductivity. Quartz vinyl tiles keep you warm.
2. Fast heating. Due to the small thickness of PVC tiles (up to 7 mm), heat spreads quickly and evenly.
3. Environmental Safety. There are no harmful and toxic additives in the structure of quartz vinyl: there is no emission when heated.
4. Anti-static. Static voltage does not accumulate on the surface, PVC tiles do not conduct current, it is absolutely safe together with a film heating system.
5. Stability. Quartz vinyl withstands temperature changes without consequences.
6. Versatility. Quartz vinyl tile of adhesive or lock type is compatible with all types of heating, except for infrared film type.

Pros and cons of floor heating with quartz vinyl tiles

Quartz vinyl tile has good moisture resistance
Quartz vinyl tile is a modern finishing material that has the following advantages:

• Layering. Each layer is made from environmentally friendly raw materials. When heating a warm floor, the finishing coating does not emit harmful substances into the environment.
• Moisture resistance. Such a floor covering is universal and can be used in rooms with high humidity. This is convenient, since electric floor heating is often installed in the bathroom.
• Wear resistance. If we compare the coating with a laminate, it corresponds to the 32nd class in terms of wear resistance.
• Practicality. The coating is easy to care for, does not absorb dirt and can be cleaned with simple detergents.
• Fire resistance. This material does not burn and does not support a flame, therefore it can be used in rooms with high fire safety requirements.
• High thermal conductivity. A system with such a coating will evenly heat the room.
• Soundproofing properties. The multilayer structure dampens shock waves and noise up to 19 dB.
• Maintainability. The individual element can be easily removed and replaced with a new one. You do not need to call the master for this. During the operation of the electric underfloor heating, it may be necessary to replace the cable section. The finishing coat is disassembled for the duration of the repair and reassembled upon completion.

The adhesive method of laying vinyl tiles makes it difficult to dismantle

Like any other material, quartz vinyl has disadvantages:

With the glue method of installation, it will be difficult to dismantle the tiles. The surface of the quartz vinyl laid on a concrete base is cool and uncomfortable to the touch

Therefore, a warm floor in such conditions will be more than appropriate. Gaps are formed between the tiles - this is the main difference from roll materials. It is important to carefully level the base before tiling. Otherwise, all its defects will be visible.

Ways of laying a film warm floor

As a rule, when laying a warm floor with power supply, three methods of their location are used:

1. Flooring directly under the flooring, as in the case of a film floor.
2. Location in the thickness of the screed, on which the finishing coat is laid after it dries.
3. Installation of electric underfloor heating on top of a screed under the tiles.

If the floor screed is in perfect condition, you can install the warm floor under the laminate or linoleum directly on it, which will significantly save time for additional work. When laying a cable electric floor in a kitchen, bathroom or on a loggia, the heating elements are hidden in the thickness of the screed, having previously laid a thermal insulating layer.

In the case of laying underfloor heating in two-story houses, where the floor insulation on the first floor has been completed, no additional screed and thermal insulation is required. Ceramic tiles laid on top and a thick layer of glue will serve as protection for the warm floor. True, you should first check the instructions for it.

List of required materials

Installation of a warm floor under the tiles is impossible without such devices and materials:

Connecting a warm floor to the thermostat and the mains

• Complete set of infrared floor: thermal film itself, special clamps, heat-insulating materials, electric wires and other elements included in the kit;
• We buy: thermostat and heat-sensitive sensors;
• Foil or other heat-reflecting materials;
• Electrical conductive tape;
• Additional materials for the floor: fiberboard sheets, polyethylene film (fits under porcelain stoneware).

Is it possible to lay the film floor under the tiles

Infrared underfloor heating is intended primarily for "dry" installation under laminate, linoleum, PVC tiles, carpet. To attract customers, many manufacturers claim that their film can be laid in a screed or tile adhesive under the tiles.

There are 3 main reasons why you shouldn't do this:

First, the film has poor adhesion. If you immediately pour a screed on it or lay tiles, it will turn out to be floating. Because of this, the concrete will have an empty sound when tapped, and if something heavy is dropped on the floor, then the screed may crack at all.

Sometimes, for better adhesion of the mortar to the top layer, they try to make many cuts and serifs. But imagine how difficult it will be to isolate it all. Moreover, you need to insulate reliably and durable, so that later you do not break the tile if you start to be shocked by leaks and the RCD will constantly work.

• Secondly, the composition of the film itself. All tile adhesives and screed solutions are alkaline. Over time, polyester film (PET) will erode, regardless of the thickness or number of layers. In the best case scenario, you will get short circuits and sparks from exposed electrical connections.
• Third, there are rod and cable electric floors that are ideal for under-tile installation. When installing them, you do not need to invent or invent anything, they are specially made for "wet" installation.

But there are several installation options, which are discussed below.

Underfloor heating under tiles - electric, infrared, cable and film, laying and installation

A floor tiled with ceramic tiles, with all its pronounced advantages, still has two serious drawbacks. Firstly, the point is that the surface can become slippery, especially when moisture gets on it. And three times - the ceramic coating can not be called a warm material. Walking on it with bare feet or in home shoes in winter can be very uncomfortable, especially when leaving, for example, from the shower or bath.

Electric underfloor heating under tiles laying technology

The first negative point can be avoided by immediately selecting a ceramic coating for rooms with a special, non-slip surface. The second problem also has a solution - it is an electric heated floor under the tiles, the laying technology of which may differ slightly, depending on the type of heating system chosen.The work of installing an electric underfloor heating is not an easy task, but nevertheless, it is quite accessible for independent execution by a neat and diligent owner of an apartment or house, without the involvement of specialists.

What are the advantages of an electric underfloor heating?

The content of the article

1 What are the advantages of an electric underfloor heating 2 How to prepare for laying a warm electric floor 3 Cable-type underfloor heating 3.1 Types of heating cables for underfloor heating 3.2 How to calculate the required amount of cable 3.3 The process of installing a cable underfloor heating under the tiles 4 Mesh heating mats 5 Installation of a rod infrared warm floor for tiles6 Video - Film infrared floor for ceramic tiles

Heating of the floor surface, tiled with ceramic tiles, can be carried out by installing water circuits, or by using one of the existing electric heating systems. Both the one and the other type can be used both as the main source of heat and as an additional one, which increases the comfort of the premises.

The water-heated floor, of course, wins in terms of economic operation - it can even be connected to an existing central heating system if certain conditions are met. But the cost of its installation and the scale of the work is incomparably higher than any of the electrical ones. In addition, electric heating has a number of other undeniable advantages:

Any water heating circuit requires a massive screed. If we also add the diameter of the pipes themselves, then the rise in the floor level turns out to be very significant, which is far from always permissible in urban apartments. It is impossible to disregard the additional loads on the floors that arise at the same time. But some electric underfloor heating does not require a screed at all. The installation of an electric underfloor heating itself is much easier. There is no risk of hidden coolant leaks - the possibility of flooding of the lower neighbors is excluded. Electric underfloor heating does not require rather bulky and expensive adjusting equipment. Yes, and they are much easier to fine-tune. No negotiation procedures with utilities are required - the main thing is not to go beyond the allocated power supply limit for an apartment or a country house.

Electric floor heating creates the most comfortable conditions for residents - an evenly heated surface gives off heat, which rises upward, with a gradual decrease in temperature as the height increases.

Comfortable temperature distribution with underfloor heating in comparison with classic radiator or collector heating

Ceramic tiles, laid on top of the heating system, turn into a capacious "accumulator" of thermal energy - it is pleasant to walk on them with their shoes on, and the heated layer of tiles gives off heat to the room most evenly.

There are several types of underfloor heating that can be installed under ceramic tiles. The installation technology for each of them has its own nuances. Nevertheless, there are many similarities, especially in terms of the preparation of the room and the required tool.

How to prepare for installing a warm electric floor

The first thing that draws attention is the degree of insulation of the base base of the floor. If electrical energy is spent on absolutely unnecessary heating of a floor slab or a floor laid on the ground, then the owners will simply go broke paying bills for consumed kilowatts. Usually, warm floors are laid on a base that already contains a layer of thermal insulation in its structure - this is especially important for private houses or for apartments where an unheated room is located below.Under favorable conditions, some technologies for the installation of electric heating can be limited to a thin foil thermal insulator. Second, the floor surface must be repaired. It makes no sense to lay the heating system and then - ceramic tiles, if the surface has significant irregularities, cracks or cracks, areas of instability or looseness of the old screed. Thirdly, a power supply line of the required power with a mandatory grounding circuit must be connected to the room, to the place of the planned installation of the thermostat. For it, a separate machine should be provided on the switchboard, and, preferably, secure yourself by installing a protective device - an RCD. For questions about wiring the line, it makes sense to contact a qualified electrician. The next question is the purchase of a thermostat with a temperature sensor. In the overwhelming majority of cases, they are not included in the underfloor heating set, but without them, its work is impossible.

A thermostat with a sensor is not included in the standard set of electric underfloor heating

The thermostat can be chosen to your taste - with electromechanical or push-button control, with LED or LCD indication, with various designs and colors, etc. Usually, all these devices are designed to be installed in a standard socket for an outlet or switch.

You also need to take care of the set of tools:

Underfloor heating installation always implies electrical work. You will need a tool for cutting wires, stripping insulation. Before switching the wires in the thermostat, it is advisable to tin the ends - which means that you need a soldering iron and the necessary consumables - solder, flux. It is best to use a construction hairdryer to shrink the heat shrink tubing. By the way, although a set of underfloor heating usually includes a certain amount of "heat shrinkage", it would be nice to have at least a small reserve of your own. In the floor and on the wall, you will need to cut out grooves - for this you need to have a "grinder" with a stone disc and a perforator. the electrical circuit will need to take control measurements - the total conductivity of the circuit and its resistance - which means you need a multimeter. It is also recommended to check the insulation resistance - this is done with a special device - a megohmmeter.

Multimeter (left) and megohmmeter

General construction work is also ahead: sometimes it is the filling of the screed, and in any case, the laying of ceramic tiles. This means that all the necessary tools must be prepared - a mixer (nozzle for a drill) for mixing building mixtures and a container for these purposes, spatulas - ordinary and notched, as a rule, rollers and brushes for applying a primer, accessories for marking and control - a tape measure, a ruler, building level, marker or pencil, etc.

Some tools will be required in any case, others - depending on the chosen technology for laying the warm floor. This will be discussed in more detail below.

Underfloor heating cable type

Types of heating cables for underfloor heating

To begin with, we will consider the underfloor heating system with a heating cable. First of all, it is necessary to decide on its type, since the cable can be single-core, two-core, or with a semiconductor matrix.

The single-core option is one of the most inexpensive. The conductor is heated according to the usual resistive principle, just like the spiral of an iron or heating element.

Single core heating cable structure

The price for such cables is not high, but it is also very inconvenient to work with them. The main difficulty is that both mounting ("cold") ends must converge at one point - at the place where the thermostat is installed. Considering that cable crossings on the floor are strictly prohibited, this makes it very difficult and sometimes even restricts the possibilities of laying.

Recommended: Reinforced concrete slab foundation

A two-core cable is much more convenient in this regard.

The closure of the chain here is ensured by the presence of an end sleeve, there is only one "cold" end, and this makes the laying process much easier. In the role of "spiral" in different models can act as one conductor, or both at once.

Resistive type two-core cable

The main disadvantage of both mentioned cables is the simultaneous and equal heating along the entire length, which is not always convenient. And yet, the circuit itself excludes the performance of the heating system in the event of a break in any section of the heating cable

Semiconductor self-regulating cable is an innovative development.

The structure and principle of self-regulation of a semiconductor cable

Metal wires here play the role of exclusively conductors, and heating occurs in a semiconductor matrix located between them. Moreover, the higher the temperature in a particular area, the lower the conductivity of the semiconductor, and the lower the energy consumption. Thus, the possibility of overheating is excluded, the economy of the system's operation increases sharply.

A semiconductor self-regulating cable is still a very expensive "pleasure", and if we consider the options from the standpoint of "price - quality - ease of installation", then a two-core resistive cable becomes the best choice. It will be discussed below.

How to calculate the required amount of cable

Work always begins with planning a cable layout scheme, a place for installing a thermostat and connecting to a power supply.

It is never planned to lay the cable under stationary pieces of furniture - for the correct operation of such a system, constant heat exchange with air is required, and in its absence, the cable may overheat and fail.

An approximate layout of a heating two-core cable

The distance from walls and furniture should be at least 50 mm, and from heating devices (for example, radiators or convectors, heating risers, etc.) - by less than 100 mm. It is strictly forbidden to plan laying with the intersection of the cable. to be guided by the fact that the cable should cover about 70 ÷ 75%! о (MISSING) t of the total area of ​​the room.

The main planning parameters are the required cable length and the pitch between adjacent loops. These values ​​must be calculated based on the laying area (S), the required amount of thermal energy for effective heating (Qs) and the specific thermal power of the selected cable model, calculated for 1 meter of its length (Qkb). Where do you get these values?

S is easy to find by measuring the sections on which the cable will be laid, calculating and summing up their area. The value of Q s is taken equal to:

- If a warm floor is the only source of heating, then 180 W / m² in the case when the room is located "on the ground" or above an unheated room, and 150 W / m² - if there is a heated room below.

- If underfloor heating is considered as an additional source of heat, these values ​​will be 130 and 110 W / m², respectively.

Specific thermal power of the cable Qkb, W / running meter, is necessarily indicated in the technical documentation of the product.

The calculation is carried out according to two formulas:

The required cable length is:

L = S × Qs / Qkb

Given the length value, you can also find the cable laying pitch - the distance between the parallel laying loops:

N = 100 × S / L

In order not to bother site visitors with independent calculations, a special calculator has been placed, designed to quickly and accurately determine the cable length and laying step:

Go to calculations

Calculation of the length of the heating cable

Enter the requested values ​​and indicate the planned functionality of the “underfloor heating”.

Use the slider to set the calculated area for laying the heating cable in sq. m.

Choose the functional purpose of the "warm floor"

The main source of heating. Floor on the ground or above an unheated room The main source of heating. Downstairs there is a heated room. Additional heating source. Floor on the ground or above an unheated room Additional heating source. Downstairs there is a heated room

Enter the nameplate value of the specific heat output of the selected heating cable model (W / m)

Underfloor heating cables are not sold by the meter - they are produced in an assortment of standardized lengths with installed connecting and end couplings. Therefore, it is necessary to select the closest length from the model range according to the obtained value.

By the way, it can happen that with a large area of ​​the room, the estimated length will exceed the possible options available on sale. In this case, you will have to split the floor into two sections, and for each, make your own calculations based on its area. Each circuit in this situation must have its own thermostat.

When we decided on the length of the cable, it remains to find the distance between the turns (laying step):

Go to calculations

Enter the cable routing area again

Enter the length of the selected heating cable set

After carrying out the necessary calculations, it remains to accurately, to scale, draw a cable layout diagram in order to be guided by it during the installation process - and you can start practical work.

The process of installing cable underfloor heating under the tiles

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
It will not be superfluous to check once again the completeness of the purchased "warm floor". 1 package; 2 - product passport and installation instructions; 3 - coil of heating cable of the required length; 4 - "cold" connecting wire, connected to the cable with a coupling; 5 - corrugated tube for placing a temperature sensor with a signal wire in it; 6 - mounting tape for fixing the cable loops on the floor; 7 - plastic plug for the corrugated tube.
Additionally, a thermostat with a temperature sensor is purchased.
With the scaled cabling in front of your eyes, you can get to work.
In the selected place, using a special crown, a socket is cut out for installing the socket - here the thermostat will be mounted. Its height above the floor level can be any, convenient from the point of view of the owners, but not less than 300 mm. A place should be provided so that it is subsequently never covered by stationary furniture or large household appliances. Very often the thermostat is installed near the light switch.
From the finished nest vertically down to the floor level, a rectangular groove is cut, approximately 20 × 20 mm. It is necessary for laying installation wires and corrugated tubes with a temperature sensor cable in it. It is advisable to immediately fix two or three wire or other clamps in the strobe - in order to subsequently collect all the wires and the tube into one bundle.
The floor is cleared of debris and dust.
The floor surface is primed with a deep penetration compound. This will remove dust from the surface and ensure its good adhesion to the concrete solution of the future screed.
Roll foil insulation is laid over the entire floor area. It will serve as additional thermal insulation and will help reflect the heat flow emanating from the operating cable upward towards the room. The foil layer is outward.
Neighboring strips or sheets of insulation are stacked end-to-end, and the seam between them is glued with metallized tape.
The next step is to lay out and fix the mounting tapes to the floor. You can fix them, depending on the type of base coating, on dowels or simply on self-tapping screws. The distance between adjacent parallel belts is from 500 to 1000 mm.
Mounting tapes are very handy for cable routing. However, there is an important point to make. It happens that a layer of waterproofing is located close to the surface of the base of the floor, and it should not be disturbed by drilling holes under the dowels or screwing in self-tapping screws. You can do the following - cover the entire floor surface with a strong fiberglass reinforcing mesh. It is easy to tie the cable to it when laying it out, and in addition, the mesh will also serve as an additional strengthening of the screed.
The layout of the cable begins according to the diagram. The first fixation to the mounting plate is near the connecting sleeve, so that the length of the "cold" end is enough to reach the thermostat, without tension and intersection with the rest of the cable. The "cold" wire itself can be placed along the wall up to the groove, laying it between the wall and the foil insulation.
The cable loops are laid in strict accordance with the drawing, observing the calculated pitch. Special fasteners on the mounting plate (bendable "antennae") ensure reliable fixation. If a reinforcing mesh is used, then the cable can be tied up with plastic clamps - "ties".
The installation ends by fixing the cable in the area of ​​the end sleeve.
Further, a temperature sensor with a signal wire is inserted into the corrugated tube.
The head of the temperature sensor must reach the end of the corrugated tube. Then the hole of the tube is muffled with a special cap included in the kit - to prevent the concrete solution from getting inside during further work.
A tube with a temperature sensor is installed exactly in the middle between the turns of the heating cable, fixed to the mounting strips or reinforcement mesh. Starting from the corner between the wall and the floor, the corrugated pipe fits into a vertical groove. In this case, the bending radius should not be less than 50 mm - so as not to break the tube and thereby pinch the signal wire. The distance of the sensor from the wall is 500 ÷ 600 mm.
The mounting "cold" end of the cable is also placed in the same groove. Sometimes the power supply wires are also placed here. All this is collected in a single bundle, fixed with clamps. Then the strobe can be repaired with cement-sand mortar or putty mixture.
They check the conductivity of the circuit and the resistance level of the laid cable - it must correspond to the data specified in the passport. If possible, the insulation resistance is also checked. Then, in accordance with the circuit of the temperature sensor, they are connected to the terminals of the mounting conductors of the heating cable, the temperature sensor and the 220 V network. It is recommended to tin the ends cleaned of insulation before switching. After that, the system's operability is checked - a short-term, no more than 1 minute, power-up is performed. This checks the operation of both the control panel and the cable itself - its heating should be felt. After checking, the power is completely turned off. For a full guarantee, it is better to uncommute and remove the thermostat again - so that before the system is started, no one could even accidentally turn on the "warm floor".
Many manufacturers of underfloor heating require an accurate scaled cable laying scheme in the passport to comply with the warranty conditions. On it, with reference to the specific dimensions of the room, the laid cable itself, the location of the end and connecting couplings, the temperature sensor and the thermostat should be shown.
To ensure the contact of the future screed with the base of the floor, windows with a size of about 50 × 150 ÷ ​​200 mm are cut in the foil insulation between the turns of the cable. They are usually staggered with a row spacing of about 1000 mm from each other.
After that, it is recommended to glue an elastic damper tape around the perimeter of the room at the junction of the wall and floor. Further, a system of beacons from metal profiles is installed so that the thickness of the screed is from 30 to 50 mm.A solution for pouring is being prepared, laid out on the floor surface on top of the laid cable ...
... and then evenly distributed and aligned using the rule. It is important to prevent air pockets - they will drastically reduce the efficiency of the warm floor and may even lead to local overheating of the cable.
The screed must harden and gain strength before starting further work for at least a week. It is recommended to regularly moisten it with water during the first 3 - 4 days after initial setting and cover it with plastic wrap.
After a week, you can proceed to laying ceramic tiles, after thoroughly priming the surface. The cladding technology is common, but the glue must be used one that is designed specifically for warm floors, that is, it is not afraid of temperature extremes. Even after the tile adhesive has completely hardened, you cannot turn on the heating - at least 4 weeks must pass from the moment the screed is poured. It is strictly forbidden to use heating to accelerate the solidification of mortars. The system should be started in stages - on the first day, set, for example, 15 degrees, and then add 5 degrees daily until the design temperature is reached.

Mesh heating mats

Special heating mats have become very popular. In fact, this is the same heating cable, but already laid and fixed on the fiberglass mesh with a certain pitch.

Mesh heating mats are very easy to install

The price for such kits is slightly higher than for cables, but on the other hand, laying is easier, and you can do without a screed from above at all - tiling directly on the laid mats.

Laying planning is generally the same as described above. Mats go on sale with the expectation of different areas of the insulated floor - this should be taken into account when planning and purchasing a set. They can also differ in terms of specific heat transfer. Comparison of these two parameters - the area and the required thermal power, will help you choose the right kit.

Foil insulation does not fit under such mats - therefore, the issues of thermal insulation of the floor must be thought out in advance.

Installation of underfloor heating with mesh mats is carried out in the following order:

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
The completeness is checked, a thermostat with a temperature sensor necessary for installation is purchased.
On the wall, in the same way as in the case of the cable, a socket for a socket and a strobe is marked and cut. But, in addition to this, the strobe is also marked on the floor. Its size in cross-section is the same - 20 × 20 mm, length - 600 ÷ 800 mm from the corner.
First, the slots are cut with a "grinder" ...
... and then the concrete can be selected with a hammer drill.
As a result, the vertical and horizontal grooves should converge at one point.
You can immediately, after removing the debris, priming and complete drying of the surface, lay the corrugated tube with a thermal sensor. The placement of the sensor in the tube and the installation of the plug are the same as described above. The tube is first placed in a horizontal groove and fixed there ...
... and then it is stacked vertically - to the place where the thermostat is installed. To avoid creases, the turning radius is at least 50 mm.
After that, the horizontal groove with the laid tube can be immediately sealed with tile adhesive up to the floor level.
The mats are laid out in accordance with the previously drawn up scheme. The requirement is the same - cables must not cross anywhere. A distance of at least 50 mm is usually left between adjacent parallel strips of the mat. The first strip should be laid so that the temperature sensor is in the center of the cable loop - both along its length and width
If necessary, change the direction of laying, carefully, so as not to touch the cable itself, the fiberglass mesh is cut.
The mat is given the right direction and continues to be laid.
How are the mats fixed to the floor surface? Products from some manufacturers have a self-adhesive base - they are simply smoothed and pressed against the primed floor surface - such a temporary fixation will be enough before laying the tiles. If the mat is ordinary, then both the mesh and the cables can be point-fixed with silicone hot glue using a gun.
There is another type of such mats - the cable is fixed on elastic mesh tapes. In this case, the edge of the mat is attached to special hooks (they are shown by arrows). These elements must be included in the delivery set - they have a pad with a self-adhesive layer applied. After fixing the elastic bands on the hooks, the mat itself can be stretched in the desired direction. This allows you to vary the pitch between the loops.
These clips are installed at the beginning and at the end of each strip of mat. Otherwise, everything is repeated - the base can be cut to comply with the cable laying scheme.
Such mats are good not only because you can change the pitch of the cable loops - there are more possibilities for laying in difficult areas. For example, the mat can be stretched diagonally or trapezoidally.
After complete laying of the mat, control measurements, switching, test run are carried out - there are no special features here. Then the heating system is completely turned off - and you can proceed directly to laying ceramic tiles.
Tile adhesive is being prepared (designed specifically for warm floors). Then the composition is laid out in sections directly on the laid mat and carefully, so as not to damage the cables, distributed with a notched trowel. The thickness of the adhesive layer should be 10 ÷ 12 mm.
Ceramic tiles are laid directly on this layer of glue. At the same time, it is very important to achieve uniform distribution of the mixture, especially in the places where the cable passes, so as not to leave even the smallest air voids.
The tile is pressed tightly, adherence to a single plane is controlled using a building level. Moving on the tiled floor is allowed after the expiration of the period specified in the instructions for the adhesive composition. However, it is better to start the warmest floor after 3 - 4 weeks. The start-up is carried out in the same way, in steps, with a gradual increase in the heating power.

The advantage of this technology for laying a warm floor is that it is possible not even to dismantle the old tile covering. It will be enough for better adhesion to process it with an abrasive, giving the necessary roughness for adhesion of the glue, or even simply treat it with a special primer "Betonokontakt". Thus, you can quickly and without tedious dismantling work and renew the ceramic coating, for example, in the bathroom or kitchen, and give it all the qualities of a warm floor.

You may be interested in information about what constitutes a pump-mixing unit for underfloor heating

Installation of a rod infrared underfloor heating under the tiles

Another type of electric underfloor heating, perfect for further tiling with ceramic tiles, are infrared rod mats.

An innovative approach - infrared rod mats

They are two parallel conductor buses, between which with a certain pitch are placed heating elements 0 rods made of a special material that has the property of becoming a source of infrared radiation under the influence of a passing current, which transfers thermal energy over a distance. Each of the rods is completely independent, and even the failure of one or more will not disrupt the overall performance of the underfloor heating system.

Moreover, the rods have the property of self-regulation - the higher the temperature, the lower their energy consumption.When the maximum heating is reached, they are simply "locked" - this gives considerable energy savings. It is important that such rod mats can be placed over the entire area of ​​the room, regardless of the installation of furniture items - they do not threaten overheating. And in the future, you can carry out redevelopment, rearrangement in the interior, not at all fearing that this will damage the work of the warm floor.

Schematic diagram of switching infrared rod mats

A schematic diagram of the installation of such a floor heating system is shown in the figure, and the laying technology itself will be discussed in the table below.

1 - heating rod.

2 - conductive tires.

3 - switching wires.

4 - special switching terminal connection.

5 - "cold" wires. They can be pre-installed or also require independent switching.

6 - terminal insulating sleeves.

7 - thermal sensor.

8 - thermostat.

9 - mains power supply cables.

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
Traditionally, the completeness of the set is checked: 1 - rod mat of the required length to cover the entire insulated floor surface; 2 - installation instructions and product passport; 3 - a bundle of a commutation cable; 4 - corrugated tube with a plug to accommodate the temperature sensor. 5 - a set of crimp terminals - metal sleeves in a heat-shrinkable sheath. 6 - a set of heat shrinkable tubes.
A thermostat with a temperature sensor is purchased separately.
Another must-have is a thermo-reflective insulation. Without such a substrate, the core floor will not work correctly.
The surface of the floor is cleaned of debris and dust, undergoes a primer, best of all - double.
Preparing a nest for a thermostat, vertical and horizontal grooves, installing a temperature sensor in a corrugated pipe and laying the pipe itself are the same operations as when laying a mesh mat.
A continuous coating is laid with a roll of foil insulation. The joints are fixed with waterproof or foil tape.
The installation of the core mat starts from the area where the thermostat will be located. The mat is rolled in a straight line between two opposite walls. The distance from the walls is about 100 mm. Important - the thermal sensor should be placed strictly between the rods and approximately in the center of the width of the mat.
Now you need to change the direction to the opposite. To do this, the current-carrying bus, farthest from the pivot point, is cut with pliers.
The incision should be made exactly in the center between the rods.
The mat unfolds and continues to be laid. This procedure is maintained until the area is completely covered. Condition - the total length of the mat should not exceed 25 meters.
So that the strips of the laid mat do not move during further work, they can be fixed on the floor with tape, first along ...
... and then across.
When the mat is unfolded and fixed, proceed to switching the electrical circuit. To do this, there must be a cable coil in the kit. Its cross-section fully corresponds to the power consumption of the rod mat.
First of all, it is necessary to connect the cut and spaced ends of the busbar with a cable. For this, its end is stripped of insulation.
The stripped conductor is inserted from one side into a connecting sleeve, which is tightly crimped at this point, ensuring reliable contact.
Then a section of the switching wire of the required length is prepared. Its end is stripped of isolation.
The supplied heat shrink tubing is put on immediately. It is still being pushed aside - it will be needed later.
The stripped end of the cable is inserted from the other side of the sleeve, where the busbar is already crimped. The terminal is also crimped on the second side.
The crimped sleeve is warmed up with a construction hairdryer. The heat-shrinkable jacket will then fit tightly around the contact joints.
That's not all - a previously worn heat-shrink tube is pushed onto the terminal and also warmed up by a hairdryer. As a result, the connection receives a very reliable double insulation.
Then, in exactly the same way, switching is carried out at the second cut end of the bus. This ensures the integrity of the circuit. If the mat is laid in three or more strips, the operation is repeated. In some models, it will be necessary to connect the "cold" ends to the mat in the same way, which are then brought to the place where the thermostat is installed.
The next step is to install end sleeves at the far ends of the busbars. To do this, they are put on heat-shrinkable tubes, the ends of which, after heating, are tightly squeezed, achieving complete sealing of the cut.
This is followed by checking the circuit, making control measurements, switching the thermostat, test run - all this has already been described above.
If everything is functioning normally, the system is completely de-energized, and then proceeds to preparation for laying the tiles. For this, rectangular or diamond-shaped windows are cut in the foil insulation between the rods - by analogy with the technology of laying the heating cable.
This is what the floor surface will look like before tiling.
One of the windows must necessarily fall on the thermal sensor.
On top of the mat, you can pour a thin, about 20 - 25 mm screed, but it is quite permissible to immediately lay ceramic tiles.
The solution is spread with a notched trowel with the utmost care, achieving complete uniformity and filling all voids. The tiles are laid in the usual way, with constant control of the horizontal position and thickness of the joints.
The main condition for the warm floor to work correctly is that the total thickness of the tile adhesive layer and the ceramic tile itself should be approximately equal to 30 mm. Starting the underfloor heating system is the same as in the cases described above.

We recommend: How to properly make a warm floor with your own hands - installation, how to connect?

It must be mentioned that there is another type of electric heat-insulated floors - infrared film type. Frankly speaking, a floor heating system such as an infrared warm floor for laminate, linoleum, carpet, parquet or solid board is more suitable.

Film infrared heating element

Film elements are not combined with ceramic tiles very well. Firstly, it is difficult to ensure reliable adhesion of all layers - the subfloor, tile adhesive and tile - there is simply nowhere to cut windows in the film, and small holes will not provide good contact. Secondly, whatever you say, a cement-based layer significantly reduces the unique performance properties of such infrared heaters.

Nevertheless, craftsmen find ways to use infrared floors and in "alliance" with ceramic tiles. For example, sheets of waterproof plasterboard are laid on top of the mounted film floor. Gypsum weakly resists infrared radiation, therefore the tile receives a reliable, even base, and the loss of infrared heating properties is not so significant.

Another option is to pour a thin reinforced screed over the infrared film elements, which will become the basis for laying the tiles. A similar technique is well shown in the proposed video:

Video - Film infrared floor for ceramic tiles

Infrared film warm floors and PVC tiles

They appeared on the market not so long ago, but have already gained considerable popularity. They represent a flexible, thin system, the functioning of which is based on long-range infrared radiation. The heating element is a hexagonal carbon nanolattice enclosed in two layers of polymer material and connected by silver-plated copper conductive buses.
Installation is quite simple, glue is applied to the leveled base, on top of which sheets of film floor heating are laid, and then another layer of adhesive is applied to the latter, on which adhesive PVC tiles are already laid.

The advantages include high efficiency, excellent thermal conductivity, excellent maintainability of the entire complex, both PVC coating and underfloor heating. In addition, the infrared spectrum is as close as possible to the sun, therefore it acts as a kind of "native" for humans from the point of view of physiology.

An unconditional advantage is that PVC tiles transmit radiation practically without loss, which determines the effectiveness of combining such a heating system with this type of finishing flooring. It is also worth noting the simple installation, which can be done by hand.

The disadvantages include significant energy consumption (especially in large rooms), heating of furniture (without legs), dependence on a constant power supply.

Characteristics of infrared heaters

A film coating is produced in the form of strips, the width of which varies in the range of 50-110 cm. The length can be adjusted, for which notches are provided on the insulation. Guided by them, an incision is made, which makes it possible to obtain a strip of the required length. No deterioration of environmental conditions is observed under the influence of infrared radiation. For example, the heating system does not affect the level of air humidity. The wavelength is 10-20 microns.

Advantages of an infrared floor

Positive qualities of the coating:

• higher efficiency in comparison with cable-type electrical systems;
• the rough base is characterized by a small thickness, since the film is thin, as a result, the height of the ceilings does not decrease;
• there is no risk of leaks, since no heat transfer fluid is used as a heating element;
• during the operation of the system, the level of intensity of electromagnetic radiation is minimal;
• installation does not take much time;
• if one of the sections of the heating system is damaged, the rest of the area will remain in working condition, due to the parallel connection of the strips;
• the price of a film underfloor heating is lower when compared with electric and water analogs;
• energy consumption is less than that of a cable structure.

Disadvantages of infrared systems when laying them under tiles

During operation, the shortcomings are practically not found. The main risk is damage to the film. It can withstand high loads, but in some cases it can deform.

Advantages of quartz vinyl tiles

Quartz vinyl tiles are appreciated by many for their high strength and phenomenal durability. Among other things, due to the fact that polyvinyl chloride is part of this finishing material, quartz vinyl floor tiles acquire a natural warmth. In the reviews, buyers note that it is pleasant to the touch, unlike ceramic. The main advantages of quartz vinyl flooring:

1. Environmental friendliness of the material. No harmful substances are released even at high temperatures.
2. Quartz vinyl tile, reviews of which tell us that it does not absorb water at all, is widely used in rooms with high levels of humidity.
3. Fire resistance. Does not support the combustion process, that is, it is a self-extinguishing material.
4. High resistance to chemically active substances.
5. High level of wear resistance and, accordingly, durability, the service life of the tiles is 25 years.
6. Resistant to temperature changes.
7. Impact resistance.
8. Possesses sound-absorbing qualities.
9. Easy to maintain and repair. The tiles can be washed with any detergent. If repairs are required, individual tiles can be easily removed and replaced with a new panel.
10. Excellent aesthetic properties.
11. If you wish, you can make a "warm" floor under the quartz-vinyl tiles, there is no need to lay a substrate.
12. The material is non-conductive and antistatic.

Feature of operation

The system of film underfloor heating under tiles is successfully used both in residential buildings and apartments, and in public premises. If in the classic version the heating element is located on the wall, then here the heating circuit is placed in the screed body under the tile. Sometimes a film warm floor is hidden by tile glue. Thanks to this, the entire area of ​​the room warms up evenly, and a rather comfortable temperature is created inside the room. Another feature of this system is that it is economical heating. But there is one important nuance here. An infrared heating circuit cannot be the main heating system in any way.

Film infrared underfloor heating is very popular and has a number of positive aspects. For example, unlike cable infrared underfloor heating, the film system has a greater efficiency. If we compare this system with a warm water floor, then this system requires minimal costs for arrangement. No coolant is needed, and as a result, the likelihood of leakage is excluded. The infrared system does not dry the air and does not emit electromagnetic waves.

The process of transferring heat energy is carried out by infrared radiation. Thanks to this, the surface heating process is carried out. When the surface has gained heat, it transfers heat energy to the room. Also, infrared radiation heats up all the surrounding objects, which also then transfer heat.

The average infrared wavelength is about 20 microns. Due to this, the system is very close to the action of sunlight. These waves travel perfectly through the air. If the rays meet certain objects on their way, then the objects take on heat, and then transfer it into the air. This whole system of work is called the secondary convection effect.