How to fix a hole from a parapet boiler

What is the best way to fill up holes in an apartment - a new building in the ceiling and floor, to guarantee against leaks, and even sound insulation will not hurt?

Having looked at your photos, I can say that, in principle, the installation of the risers is done correctly. The floor slabs are drilled, not punctured with a sledgehammer. The plumbing riser in the place where it passes through the floor slab is wrapped in roll material. Cold and hot water pipelines at the points of passage through the floor slabs are passed through metal sleeves that rise above the floor and ceiling plane by about 20 mm, which meets the regulatory requirements.

The only violation is an attempt to seal the holes for the passage of the riser with polyurethane foam, which is not allowed, since polyurethane foam is a combustible material. In the event of a fire, the flame can spread to the overlying floor.

The gaps in the holes between the plumbing riser and along the perimeter of the sleeves are sealed with M200 grade mortar. You can seal them with sand concrete. The gaps between the risers and the sleeves are sealed with a non-combustible soundproofing material such as mineral wool.

I wrote that the gaps between the risers and the sleeves are sealed with mineral wool, and the gaps between the sewer pipeline and the edges of the hole through which the sewer pipeline is passed are sealed with M200 grade mortar or sand concrete. Similarly, the gaps between the sleeves and the edges of the holes through which they are passed are also sealed with M200 grade mortar or sand concrete.

Sealing the gaps in the sleeves with mineral wool is necessary so that the risers can be removed when they are replaced. The sleeves rise above the floor level by 20mm, which guarantees protection against leaks. Of course, if the water level on the floor in your apartment rises above 20mm, then water can flow through the sleeves to the lower floor. But this only happens in the event of a major accident. With high-quality sealing of gaps with sand concrete or mortar, no leaks are guaranteed.

But work on sealing gaps on the ceiling can be performed only from the overlying floor, that is, by your "upper" neighbors. You just need to install the formwork so that mortar or sand concrete does not penetrate into your apartment. You can fill the gaps that you have on the floor yourself. - 3 years ago

Ceiling defects cannot be called a rarity; they are found both in new buildings and in old houses. Most often, the owners of a living space are faced with a problem in the form of a hole in the ceiling, so you should study in more detail how to eliminate such a defect.

Reasons for the formation of a hole in the ceiling

Ceiling defects in the form of a hole arise for the following reasons:

As a result of flooding or damage by the fungus, plaster falls in certain areas. A layer of plaster can fall off if its thickness is more than 5 cm. This happens even when using modern materials. This problem can be prevented by applying the plaster mixture in several layers with the obligatory laying of a reinforcing mesh.
As a result of the formation of cracks between the floor slabs, plaster delamination can also occur. Even a minor crack can be the reason for this.
The hole can be formed by the destruction of the cement plug in the hole for communication systems, for example, for heating risers, sewers and plumbing systems. Constant changes in the temperature of the hot water riser can cause condensation to form, which destroys the grout used to seal the hole.
A hole in the ceiling can form during the replacement of the riser of communication systems. In this case, the task of how to close the hole in the ceiling near the pipe becomes relevant.
In addition, a hole can form in the stretch ceiling structure if carelessness is shown when moving large objects.Panels made of plastic or gypsum practically do not tolerate mechanical stress.
A hole in the false ceiling can appear at the junction of structural elements with the walls.

Repair of the radiator depending on the place of leakage

Repair of a radiator from a leak with rubber.

If the gap has arisen on a flat area, you can use rubber for insulation. The leak should be wrapped with a soft rubber band and tightened firmly with clamps or wire. The main thing is that the rubber band should be somewhat wider than the damaged area and close it tightly. In order for the hole to be sealed as tightly as possible, you can use a special plumbing clamp designed for pipes. Such measures will allow the damaged radiator to be operated until the end of the heating season. As soon as possible, it is advisable to seal the hole or replace the radiator with a new one.

If the rate of water leakage allows you to go to the store for tools, you can purchase a factory band fitted with a layer of sealing rubber. Clamps should be provided for clamping.

A little more complicated is the situation when a leak occurs in the place where the pipes are connected. If in this section the width of the pipe is greater than the parameters of the factory band, you can replace the sealing layer with a piece of ordinary rubber. It is wound on the damaged area in such a way that the difference in parameters is compensated. In the future, the rubber should be pressed using a special clamp. Despite the fact that the clamp may not be completely flat, this will not affect the crimping force of the problem area of the radiator.

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Ways to fix holes in the ceiling

In search of solutions to the question of how to fix the hole in the ceiling, the type of ceiling structure should be taken into account.

The question of how to fix a hole in a cassette-type ceiling can be solved very simply, it is enough to replace the damaged cassette. Elements of this design are inexpensive and are sold in almost all hardware stores. If it is not possible to purchase the necessary element, then you can put a lamp or a ventilation grill in this place. In addition, it is possible to replace more than one damaged panel, but several elements, creating a pattern of plates in a contrasting color.

Damaged PVC panels are more difficult to replace, but in this case there is also the possibility of doing the work yourself. If such a situation arises, it is necessary to dismantle several panels due to the peculiarities of their fastening.

Bridging the Big Gap

When the leak is too strong and there is no option than to glue the radiator, you should immediately call the emergency service. If, due to the high flow of boiling water, it is not possible to access the battery, it can be covered using a thick blanket. This will not reduce the flow of water, but it will be possible to come closer to the radiator and inspect the details of the accident.

You can temporarily bandage the radiator with an elastic band while you wait for emergency services.

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It is quite easy to deal with a situation where a leak has occurred in the place where the battery is attached to the pipe. In this case, before the arrival of the emergency service, you can use a wire and a piece of rubber, covering the hole with them. In the presence of a metal clamp, the flow can be completely eliminated.

When a leak occurs at the junction of the sections, an unusual method can be used. So, the hole can be tightly wrapped with strips of fabric, previously soaked in moisture-resistant heat-resistant glue. When the glue mixture is completely dry, the radiator leak will be hermetically sealed.

Another good way to seal the radiator is various polymer and powder sealants. They are able to eliminate the leak for a while, before the arrival of emergency workers. The principle of operation of these sealants is instant polymerization upon contact with air. The sealant can withstand high temperatures, is not prone to evaporation, and can prevent leakage for a long time.

With a welding machine, leaks in steel pipes can be repaired. Before repair work, they must be freed from water. If the rupture caused a large hole to appear, an additional steel plate made of sheet material should be used. It is imperative that the welding machine be grounded during repair work.

Sealing gaps between the ceiling and walls

If, during the operation of the plasterboard ceiling, a gap has formed between the structure and the wall, then to resolve the issue of how to seal the hole in the ceiling, you must perform the following steps:

The edge of the plasterboard sheet adjacent to the wall is trimmed at an angle of 45 degrees.
Fill the joint with a gypsum-based filler and dry thoroughly.
Next, the putty is treated with sandpaper and the seam is secured with paper tape with an adhesive side.

If a gap has formed between a concrete floor slab and a brick plastered wall, then the following measures are assumed:

The resulting gap is expanded to 1 cm.
Cover with a special primer with a brush. It is best to use concrete contact or its analogue in this case.
Next, the gap is filled with a plaster or acrylic putty.
Lay a serpentine tape over the putty to strengthen the seam, trying to press the material into the putty mixture.
The corner is leveled with a spatula and left to dry completely.
The repaired area is treated with fine sandpaper.

How to repair a hole from a piece of plaster that has fallen out

If, for some reason, a hole is formed in the ceiling from the fallen out plaster, then you can use several methods.

There is an easier way to solve the problem than to cover up the hole in the ceiling, it is simply covered with putty. However, there is no certainty that such a problem will not arise again.

For this reason, it is best to use the more time consuming but reliable option. It assumes the following actions:

Before filling a large hole in the ceiling, the hole is treated with an antiseptic solution, which prevents the formation of fungus.
Then the working area is covered with a layer of deep penetration primer. As a result of this measure, the surface around the hole is strengthened and the degree of adhesion of the putty to the base increases.
The primer is dried and putty is applied to the problem area. It is best to perform the last action 2-3 times, while each layer should be well dried.
At the end, the treated area is sanded and again coated with a primer.

How to check the expansion tank

A fairly common cause of tank breakdowns is the failure of the valve built into the lid. In case of incorrect operation of the element, the engine cooling system begins to function incorrectly. In addition to the formation of air pockets, excessive pressure can occur, which can rupture the container. As a result, you have to replace the tank with a new one. It is recommended that the valve be checked periodically to avoid damage to the engine.

In the cover of the expansion tank there are valves that must open at a certain air pressure

The essence of the valve is that when the liquid is heated, a strong pressure is created in the system.At a certain moment, the valve in the expansion tank opens and releases air. When the system is cooled, the reverse process occurs when air is sucked into the tank.

You will need a pump and a pressure gauge to check the valves in the cover. To do this, remove the hose from the thin upper fitting, which goes to the cooling radiator, and put on the hose from the pump. As air is being pumped, you need to follow the readings of the pressure gauge and assess the plug by ear. The valve on the tank, designed to release air, must open at a pressure of 1.1–1.5 bar. In this case, a growing hiss is heard from the cork. In this case, the increase in pressure should stop.

If there is a need to reduce the readings, then the cork is disassembled and a thick spring is bite off with pliers, adjusting the value to the desired pressure. It is recommended to replace the reservoir cap every two years to maintain optimal pressure in the system.

Video: checking the pressure of the expansion tank

The appearance of cracks in the tank is evidenced by the appearance of a coolant leak, an unpleasant odor is possible, since the antifreeze gets on the hot exhaust manifold. If damage is found in the housing, it is necessary to turn off the engine, wait until the coolant cools down, and then proceed to dismantle the element:

release the container fasteners;
unscrew the clamps and remove the hoses;
dismantle the tank;
drain antifreeze;
find a problem spot on the case.

In order to remove the expansion tank, you will need to unscrew the clamps and pull off the hoses
Breakdowns of the reservoir lead to its depressurization, as a result of which the coolant flows out. The main reasons leading to such consequences:

excessive pressure in the cooling system;
container with insufficient wall thickness (low-quality product);
boiling antifreeze is in the tank for a long time;
shock or other mechanical impact.

If antifreeze leak was found, it is necessary to determine the place where it originated from and repair or replace the vessel.

Expansion tank valve opening does not work

One of the reasons for the increased pressure in the cooling system is a malfunction of the valve in the cover of the expansion tank: it simply jams (sours). As a rule, the valve is not repairable and must be replaced. Although there are car owners who, using carburetor cleaning fluids, remove all deposits and return the part to work.

High pressure in the system can lead not only to rupture of the expansion tank, but also to damage to the heater radiator, which once again confirms the need to periodically check the valve. But the pressure can be not only high, but also low, which indicates insufficient tightness in the system. In this case, special equipment will be required, since at home it will be very problematic to find the cause.

Why is there oil in the expansion tank

Such a problem as the appearance of oil in the expansion tank is faced not only by the owners of domestic cars, but also by foreign cars. The presence of the following factors in the vessel makes you think about possible problems with the motor:

an emulsion was found on the walls of the neck of the tank, which occurs when the coolant and oil are combined;
the presence of an oil film on the surface of the antifreeze;
the appearance of an unpleasant odor and discoloration of the liquid in the tank.

The presence of oil in the expansion tank (emulsion on the plug) indicates a problem with the engine, which must be eliminated as soon as possible to avoid serious damage to the engine.
If it was revealed that oil is still present in the tank, then most likely it will be necessary to carry out repair work on the engine. This conclusion is explained by the fact that oil and coolant flow through different channels in the motor.If they connect, then the integrity of one of the channels is compromised. But first you need to understand what can lead to such a situation.

The most obvious reasons are:

Failure of the cylinder head gasket, damage to the cylinder block or head. In this case, gases, engine oil appear in the cooling system, and condensation is observed in the exhaust pipe. These signs indicate damage to the gasket and the need to replace it.
Damage to the heat exchanger. The pressure in the lubrication system is higher than in the cooling system, which can lead to oil penetration into the heat exchanger. This is due to the wear of the gasket (rupture, hardening). The element cannot be restored and requires replacement.
Mixing different antifreeze. As you know, antifreeze can be of different classifications and you should not mix the first liquid that comes across with the one that is used in the car. The fact is that the coolant has differences both in composition and in class. It is impossible to mix antifreeze of different colors, since the composition of the liquids is different, and the additives contained can enter into a chemical reaction, which will lead to unpredictable consequences.

The appearance of oil in antifreeze can be caused by damage to the heat exchanger gasket, which will require its replacement.

How to check the expansion tank cap

The cap in the expansion tank is an important part. Due to its incorrect operation, antifreeze may boil, which will lead to a leak. To avoid trouble in the future, you need to know how to check the cover for possible problems. Let us briefly consider the steps of the sequence of actions:

We inspect the part for possible damage (scratches, cracks).
The main elements of the cover are a spring, fasteners and a metal top. An important element is the spring, which should not be compressed easily.
To check, you can put the lid in your mouth and inhale. If air is drawn in easily, the valve is working. Otherwise, the spring will wedge.
You can also check with a pump with a pressure gauge. The pump is connected to the upper thin fitting and air is forced on. When a pressure of 1.1–1.5 bar is reached, the air must be vented. During normal operation of the valve, the pressure in the system is maintained within the specified limits.

To assess the performance of the cover, a visual inspection is carried out and the pressure of the element is checked using a compressor and a pressure gauge.

Why expels antifreeze from the expansion tank

During the operation of the car, you may encounter such a problem as ejection of the coolant from the tank. The main reason for this phenomenon is the wear of the pipes and other elements of the system. Since the hoses operate under high pressure and high temperature, over time, their integrity is broken, as a result of which the liquid from the reservoir goes out. But this problem is not unique to used cars. In new cars, due to malfunctions in the tank, antifreeze also goes away. The reason for this is the poor quality of parts or manufacturing defects. If there are burrs on the neck of the vessel, the lid will not provide proper tightness. As a result, the liquid is thrown out through this gap.

Antifreeze from the expansion tank may leak due to poor sealing of the cover due to factory defects of the element

There are situations when a crack appears on the tank itself. The reason, as a rule, is the poor quality of plastic and high pressure in the cooling system. However, antifreeze from the container can leave as a result of boiling, which is associated with car malfunctions, which lead to overheating of the engine. One of the problems may be a thermostat failure, a clogged cooling radiator, a pump breakdown.

Video: expels antifreeze into the tank, how to fix the problem

The reasons for the boiling of antifreeze and the appearance of foam in the expansion tank

Antifreeze or antifreeze, in comparison with water, is a liquid in which the boiling point is higher and the freezing point is lower. However, under heavy loads, the liquid is capable of boiling, which some motorists have to deal with. There may be several reasons for this:

Insufficient level of coolant in the tank and, as a result, overheating and boiling. You can get out of the situation by adding liquid to the required volume, but you need to figure out why the level has decreased.
Failure of the thermostat. If the assembly does not work properly, the fluid circulates in a small circle, which leads to the gurgling of antifreeze in the expansion tank. This is due to the fact that the liquid simply does not have time to cool when passing through a small circle. For diagnostics, you should find two nozzles coming from the thermostat. If the engine is warmed up to operating temperature and one hose is hot and the other cold, then the reason is clear - the thermostat does not open.
High pressure in the cooling system. To identify that the problem is precisely in excessive pressure, you can use the temperature sensor in the car's interior: if the readings are normal, but the antifreeze is boiling, the cause is overpressure.
Problems with the performance of the cooling radiator. Such a phenomenon as the boiling of antifreeze is especially important in the summer heat when it is idle in traffic jams. To eliminate boiling, just stop the engine and stand for a while. In addition, contamination of the radiator is possible, due to which the speed of movement of the liquid inside is reduced. You can try to eliminate contamination by flushing with both special and improvised means.

With an insufficient level of coolant in the tank, overheating and boiling of antifreeze occurs
If the antifreeze in the tank foams, then there are two main explanations for this:

Poor quality coolant.
Damage to the gasket between the cylinder head and the cylinder block.

Foam may appear in the expansion tank, which is associated with the use of low quality antifreeze or damage to the cylinder head gasket
In the case of a low-quality coolant, the foam can be easily removed with your own hands. It is enough to drain the bad antifreeze from the system, pour a solution of citric acid with distilled water. In this way, you can remove the remains of low-quality liquid. If the gasket is damaged, small bubbles first appear in the tank, and then large bubbles. A foamy mass is gradually formed.

There is only one way out in this situation - replacing the gasket, that is, you will have to remove the block head. In the worst case, it may be necessary to replace not only the gasket, but also the head, which is associated with overheating and cracking. Cracks will further contribute to the formation of foam. Depending on the make of the vehicle, repairs can be quite expensive. Therefore, there is no need to hesitate in solving such a problem.

Cracks in the cylinder head lead to the appearance of foam in the expansion tank, which indicates the need for serious engine repair

Elimination of cracks between floor slabs

If a gap appears between the concrete slabs of the ceiling, then it is recommended to do the following:

The seam between the plates is cleaned, trying to remove the old putty as much as possible.
Before filling the hole in the ceiling, the working area is covered with a layer of primer and dried well.
Fill the gap with putty, and stick the serpentine tape.
Putty is again applied on top of the reinforcing material and also dried well.
The dried surface is sanded, the formed dust is removed and covered with a primer.

If cracks form on the ceiling without a gap between the plates, then it is recommended to glue the problem area with a serpentine tape, cover it with a thin layer of putty and cover with a primer.

Bonding the radiator with epoxy resin

Necessary materials:

Epoxy is required when gluing the radiator.

rag harnesses or bandages;
epoxy resin;
steel rope;
zinc white;
metal clamp with bolts.

Often, cloth tapes soaked in various solutions are used to eliminate radiator leaks. So, before winding a rag tourniquet over the rupture site, it is advisable to clean the damaged surface to metal using a knotted steel cable. It is necessary to wind the fabric in several layers.

It is recommended to use a mixture of bronze paint (bronze powder) and epoxy resin as a fixing solution that can be used to seal the hole of the radiator. The combination of aluminum powder with epoxy adhesive has similar properties. In the absence of the above components, you can seal the hole with fabric tapes dipped in zinc white. In this case, it is advisable to use at least 4-5 layers of fabric. After the tape with the fixing compound is wound on the radiator, a metal clamp should be placed on top of the fabric layer, which is tightly tightened with bolts.

Putty is applied to the metal clamp with bolts, which will keep the flow in the pipe.

If you use iron putty, you can do without tape. In this case, you should know exactly where the radiator is leaking. The putty is applied directly to the clamp. If there is no way to make a metal clamp, then a layer of cloth soaked in a solution of iron putty is wound over the hole, over which a layer of insulating tape should be wound. The entire structure should be pressed along the edges with a few wire twists. If you have to use such sealants for a long time, you should replace the old layers of windings with new ones before the start of the heating season. The fabric should dry well before connecting the heating.

When the winding is used for a long time, the putty in the winding can be washed out by hot water. When replacing the old layer with a new one, it is advisable to rinse the problem area with gasoline or acetone: this will create optimal conditions for more reliable fixation.