ARISTON water heater error code table
| error code | cause of error | Try to reset by turning off the water heater from the mains for 5-10 seconds. If the problem persists, a repair is required at a service center. |
| E01 | Error in the circuits of the control unit, failure of the system board. | It is necessary to do a reset by turning off the water heater from the network for 5-10 seconds. If the problem persists, repair in a workshop is needed. |
| E10 | Temperature sensor defective. A possible cause is an open or short circuit in the wires to the sensor, the sensor itself is faulty. | Check the wiring, the presence of condensation on the system board, dry the control board if necessary. If the temperature sensor itself is faulty, replace it in a workshop. |
| E11 | Critically high water temperature, overheating. Temperature exceeds 105C ° | Malfunction in the heating element commutation circuits. The temperature has exceeded the critical one. It is impossible to turn off the water heater, descale the heating elements and in the tank, then turn it on and check the operation, if the problem is not eliminated, repair is needed in a workshop. |
| E12 | Exceeding the heating temperature by 12C ° above the set | The error and remedy are the same as E11 |
| E14 | Low water heating rate | The heating element is faulty, possibly a low supply voltage. Check the voltage in the power supply, replace the heating element. |
| E15 | The outlet tank of the water heater indicates a complete lack of water | Try to reset by turning off the water heater from the mains for 5-10 seconds. Fill the tank with water. Check the operation of the safety valve, it may be out of order. Make sure you have a warm water intake tube. It is necessary to descale the heating elements and in the tank, then turn on and check the operation |
| E25 | The outlet tank of the water heater indicates a lack of water | Switch off the appliance and fill it with water. Check the operation of the safety valve, it is possible that it needs to be replaced. Make sure there is a water intake tube located in the outlet tank. Thoroughly clean the heating component from any deposits and salt deposits that can affect its operation. Start the water heater again with the ON button. |
ARISTON water heater error codes
How to reset an error - this question is often asked
To reset the error on the Ariston water heater, it is enough to turn off the power (unplug the plug or turn off the power switch) of the boiler for 30 seconds, after turning on the error should disappear, if the error reappears after resetting, this is a clear sign of a malfunction, see the table of error codes below in the text.
Typical malfunctions of Ariston heaters
Why doesn't the technique work? The answer to the question will help you find the diagnosis or the boiler itself. Modern models are equipped with control boards that regulate the operation of all nodes in the system. When a breakdown occurs, a malfunction code is displayed. If there is no display, then the error is indicated by the indicators (blinking).
Decoding of symbols will help to solve problems with the operation of the heater.
Error codes for boilers "Ariston": table
| Malfunction code | What does | How to repair |
| E01 | There is a problem with the control board. | To eliminate a system error, turn the column on and off for 10 minutes. If the error reappears, inspect the board. Condensation may have formed on it. |
| E10 | Temperature sensor problem. | Check the integrity of the wiring, the tightness of the contacts. Test the sensor with a multimeter. In the event of a breakdown, replacement is performed. |
| E11 | A message about exceeding the normal temperature (more than 105 degrees). The reasons: |
- Scale, salt deposits on the heating element.
- Breakdown of the heating element.
- Thermal sensor malfunction.
- Get the heating element, clean it from scale and deposits. Check for serviceability with a tester. Replace.
- Install a new thermal sensor.
Since the boiler is simultaneously connected to electricity and water communications, malfunctions can also affect the network or the safety valve and hoses.
Let's analyze the main breakdowns of the Ariston heater:
- The tank is leaking.
- The device does not turn on.
- No water heating.
Symptoms of a malfunction may include:
- Prolonged heating.
- Noise during operation.
- Water with an unpleasant odor and cloudy color.
- Quick activation and deactivation of the boiler.
Read below for what to do and how to fix it.
Schematic diagram of the Ariston water heater
Indication of error codes on the Ariston water heater
Question - The answer to the malfunction of the Ariston water heaters
| Recently we moved to a country house, the house has an electric water heater Ariston ABS PLT ECO 80V Slim. The house has a water supply system, water is supplied from a well through an automation unit, the pressure in the water supply system is 3.5 bar. Cold water flows throughout the house perfectly (the house is 2 storey). However, if you open a tap with hot water, then nothing flows from there, or warm water flows by gravity, and over time, a trickle of warm water disappears altogether. It turns on properly, when turned on, the relay clicks under the control unit and heats the water to the set temperature. What's wrong? I would like to solve the issue on my own. | The DHW pipe system is clogged somewhere. Filters, taps, ice plugs (if in winter it stood even with drained water, ice can easily appear inside the pipes in some inconvenient places). To estimate possible locations, you need to see the system. Well water always comes with impurities, what kind of water treatment is installed? To check, it is necessary to disconnect the boiler from the network, drain the boiling water through the combined valve and check the system with cold water. To begin with, by disconnecting the DHW outlet, carefully supplying cold water, check its passage through the boiler, and then gradually through the system to the nearest hot water tap, look for a blockage / closed and forgotten tap, in general, any obstacles to the passage of water. |
| The Ariston TI-Tronic 80 V water heater was put into operation in June 2007. used in the country, not particularly intensively, the water is hard. There was a problem, if earlier he heated the water to a very hot state quickly enough, then the last time, he could not heat the water for more than 3 hours, although it became warm. What could have happened and how to deal with it. | Clean the heating element and check the magnesium anode. Unscrew the nut securing the bracket, pull out the flange with the heating element. |
| there was a problem with the piping of the TI 200 TS / C indirect heating boiler. The fact is that the boiler does not have a sleeve for connecting an external thermostat, there are only two holes on the side of the inlet and outlet of the coolant to the heat exchanger and that's it. Below this model has a heating element, provided as a backup heating. Someone may have experience with this product | These water heaters have a sleeve for thermometer, thermostat and safety thermostat cylinders. Most likely, the sleeve is located near the heating element. |
| Geyser Ariston Fast CF 14E, the same in design, heat exchanger and reducer, but with electronic ignition. It is completely new at all, the presence of wear of the membrane or soot is excluded. It was disconnected for a short time and did not work. In general, I can add the following: I came to the conclusion that she had incorrectly set (initially) gas regulation. Depending on the water flow and pressure, the gas pressure must change the reducer and thereby keep the water temperature constant, right? So in my case, with a small flow of water, it either does not ignite, or it gives almost cold water, and with a high flow, it overheats strongly.In this case, the position of the regulator is the same, I do not change it, but the water temperature is different all the time. For example, with a flow of 7 l / min, you can somehow make the temperature of the order of 40-43 degrees, at a lower temperature, the temperature barely reaches 35 grams, and the handles are at the maximum. At the same time, increasing the flow slightly, let's say up to 8-9 l / min. the water begins to overheat strongly, the column makes noise. Of course, the numbers are approximate, but they explain the essence. Who knows if there are any adjustments there? | Use the water flow handle to give as much water as you need. But do not get carried away in the direction of more water, so as not to burn too much, this will affect the service life of the column (heat exchanger) and the excess gas consumption! And with the gas handle, heat to the desired temperature (39-42, as anyone). After that, when you open the tap completely (even two, just the amount of water is divided, and the temperature does not change (theoretically)), your electric water heater will give out the required temperature. |
| For two years we were happy with the purchase, but now the problem is starting to be electrocuted. Turn it off and only then use it. There are no external signs. If there is a solution, tell me. | Option A: Connect the ground. Option B: struck the heating element, replace it. It is best to do both. In general, grounding is always necessary, and it is also good to put an RCD, such a small toggle switch is not expensive, as soon as Teng Ouzo flies, it immediately de-energizes and you will not be electrocuted. |
| How to disassemble, pull out and clean the ten in ariston sg 10 ur (floor). Something began to warm up badly. | Remove the plastic cover on the front side, there is a screw under the plug. You will see ten. You unscrew the nut, push the heating element inside the tank and carefully clean it so as not to damage it. And replace the anode. Rinse out the tank inside. Putting it all back. Tighten the mount carefully, if you overtighten, the pin on the heating element flange breaks out. |
| dripping from the safety valve. What to do? | change the fuse or check the quality of all connections (winding), the thread may have burst from excessive winding or from tightening force. |
| We bought and hung up an electric water heater Ariston. The water heats up for a very long time and is barely warm. No pressure. | change the wrong bypass valve under the pressure of your water in the system. |
| Maybe someone will tell you? For three years, an electric water heater Ariston shuttle of 50 liters has been operating in the house, a year ago the heating element and anode were changed, now they began to knock out ouzo on the power cord. I turn it on - it works, heats the water, and after a while I come up - the ouzo is turned off again. What to do? What exactly needs to be repaired or changed in this case? I note right away that there is grounding, the reasons are unlikely for an electrician. | In decreasing order of probability: heating element - replacement, condensation or water leakage into the electrical unit and on the wires / contacts, RCD malfunction. |
| I drew attention to the Ariston gas water heaters with an LCD display that have recently appeared on sale, where the water temperature is displayed. Curiously, they are arranged in the same way as ordinary ones, is it just such a peculiar indicator, or are they stuffed with electronics and work with feedback? Suppose the sensor measures the temperature of the leaving water and corrects the gas pressure? | Fully electronic feedback works only on turbocharged water heaters. This is due to the economy of power supply (they still operate from the mains, and not from batteries). When powered by batteries, discrete control is used by means of a rubber membrane and small unreliable valves, such a scheme has a number of disadvantages and low speed and reliability. In the second case, the power is supplied from the network (the turbine cannot be powered from a battery), a smarter controller with a PID regulator is installed, and most importantly, the gas supply is modulated continuously by means of a special servo valve, plus step regulation of the combustion area by means of separate valves is used, which expands the range and speed of the regulator ... In such a device, there is not a single rubber membrane at all. |
| The power limiter is the right knob that reduces water flow, right? I tried it in different positions, in the extreme right clockwise it still somehow ignites, if you turn it a little counterclockwise it already goes out. In this case, the throttle stick is at the maximum. | In the gas section there is a membrane with valves. The gas part can be freely removed and sealed in the body with a rubber ring; its stem must move absolutely freely. At the end of it there is a regulating gas valve and its spring (when disassembling, be careful with it). All this can be disassembled and checked without any problems, having achieved an easy stroke of the stem. There is a spring at the end of the gas block, but its force is not very large, it can be pressed by hand without problems. This water-gas equipment really should work from 0.2-0.3 kg / cm2. |
| Disconnects on contact with ground at the outlet. If you bend the antennae, it works fine! The house is grounded! There is a diff in the dashboard. An automatic machine, then an RCD, which is on the cord of the Ariston gas column, so it kicks out when it comes into contact with the grounding element in the outlet. What could be the reason? To check the performance of the heating elements, there are 2 of them! 1.5 and 2 kW in turn disconnected the contacts and connected them to the network, and still knocked them out until they connected them to the outlet without grounding. It turns out that the ten is normal, it cuts down even when the contacts are disconnected on them! The cord where the ouzo changed last year, not because of a failure. | Change the heating elements. And never turn on the water heater without grounding. It is necessary to look - maybe water got into the thermostat, on the connections, in the cable. Here you can only look at the place where the leak is. All electrical equipment under the boiler cover must be dry and free from significant corrosion. If there is a possibility, disconnect the wires to the heating elements - if the RCD stops working, you will definitely have to change the heating elements. Simply the most probable is damage to the heating element. |
| Tell me how to clean the Ariston gas water heater? | Disconnect the pipes, drain the water. You are filming EVN. Unscrew the fasteners of the heating elements, take them out and clean them. You collect water in the EVN as much as you can raise or put the EVN on the edge of the bath and rinse it from the hose. Rinse several times. Reassemble in reverse order. |
| Tell me, the water pressure at the entrance to the ariston is 50 liters, normal water heats, but the outlet is very small pressure almost does not go water can, which valve is it? | Do you have a non-return (safety) valve on which branch pipe is it installed? Cold or hot water? Should be in cold water. Otherwise, hot water is shut off, and cold water can go back altogether. |
| Please tell me the reason and how to fix it. Our electric water heater Ariston makes loud bangs when heated. What's the matter? | if once or twice during heating, then this is due to the thermal expansion of the tank walls. |
| Can you please tell me that you installed an Ariston ABS PRO ECO 65V Slim gas water heater and noticed that a lot of electricity is consumed. For example, we heat the tank to 70 degrees, take 1.5 sq. light, went for a swim, the temperature dropped to 60 degrees and the tank heats up again to 70 degrees and again 1.5 square meters of light is taken. Did I understand correctly? Shouldn't I have turned it on like that, it took 1.5 sq. light a day and that's it? So it was when we had Termex, turned on the water heater, it took 2 square meters of light per day and that's it. How can you save on electricity then? | EVN consumes 1.5 kW per hour. If you want to save energy, use less hot water. |
| Advise on what mode to use the water heater economically? | In continuous mode at any temperature. There will be little hot water, add temperature. |
| Why does it drip through the safety valve every time the water heater heats up? | Because water expands when heated, a lot of pressure is created and water begins to flow through the safety valve. To prevent dripping, open and close the hot water tap. |
| disassembled the Ariston electric water heater and this is what was found.First, I removed the gas block with two valves, everything is fine, the springs are not at all tight there, they move easily by hand. But next to it, under the cover with two screws, there is a powerful tight spring, I opened it and removed the spring, the rod was exposed, it moves freely. The most interesting thing is that the rubber band of the valve of an irregular round shape in the photo is hardly noticeable. Did he take it or should it be so? There can be no reason here, unless the spring is too powerful. Collected. Then I took off the frog to check it. Clean water filter. It is not clear, what is the screw next to the regulator knob? What does it regulate? Disassembled, took out the membrane. No defects, intact. Why the two blue holes are understandable, but I still haven't figured out why three more are needed under the membrane. | The holes under the diaphragm are the regulator of the flow and force on the stem. The regulator can be easily disassembled, the handle and insides are still accessible for inspection. Check them and the venturi for foreign objects, sometimes molding flakes and other things are there even on new gas water heaters. The springs, judging by their appearance, are normal, nothing is stretched. The valve is pressed against the seat a little off-center - it's okay, judging by the photo, there is a locking belt around the entire circumference, therefore, the valve is operational. You unscrew the three screws on the handle flange, take it out together with the flange and spool. There are 2 more rubber rings. You check their presence and integrity (especially the lower one, as it seals the interchamber space). The spool and inner well must be clean and free of scratches. The spring and its adjuster are removed from the side opposite the stem. From the same place is taken out and "little blue" thing - a jet. There are o-rings in there too, check them. The spool at the end of the spring rotates externally and adjusts the flow restriction. There are no more adjustments in this block. |
| Most recently, an electric water heater Ariston was installed at my house. A month later, he began to make a terrible noise. The instructions say that light noise is permissible, but this noise is growing more and more every day! Even at night I wake up from him. Tell me if you need to call the master (in general, is it a breakdown), or is it normal? | It makes a noise, usually due to the teng overgrown with scale. A little later a thumping may start - scale will fly off from the heating element. |
| The scheme of work is almost perfect in my opinion. The water temperature will always be constant and over a wide flow range. But with this turbine. I understand that with different gas flow rates, different amounts of air are required for combustion. And this craving cannot fully provide. But are there such electric water heaters without a turbine? Or that device (controller) also consumes a lot of electricity and will not work from the battery and the first option will come out? | The turbine provides a very large amount of combustion air. Its motor power is about 50 watts. The speed is regulated depending on the burner power and combustion mode. The turbine also provides cooling of the combustion chamber and heat exchanger when it is turned off, continuing to work for about 20 seconds. This prevents the formation of boiling water and reduces the load on the heat exchanger. Plus, such a device has up to 5 solenoid valves and a modulation valve that consumes up to 5 watts. In heaters of high power (above 30 kW), there is also a motorized three-way bypass, an anti-frost system, etc. That is, this is somewhat more than what we are used to understanding under the term gas water heater. The efficiency of such heaters reaches 98%. Personal impressions - when working at medium power, the discharge pipe has a temperature of about 40 C and you can freely hold it with your hand. There is a simplified version - semi-turbine water heaters are an ordinary atmospheric burner, but equipped with a smoke exhauster - a fan that sucks in combustion products and forcibly directs them into the chimney. They are also powered from the mains, but their power control circuits are common, like in atmospheric speakers.If the power supply is unstable or frequent shutdowns are possible, you can use a computer UPS, with the right choice it will be enough for more than one hour of its operation. |
| Does the turbine on the gas column play the role of a flow sensor? | The flow sensor there is an ordinary spinner, like in a water meter, but with an electronic sensor. The signal from it shows not only the presence of the duct, but also its size. Further, the controller, based on the temperature difference between the input water and the set output, taking into account this flow, sets the burner power smoothly (or in steps + smoothly inside a step). The turbine (centrifugal fan, volute) pumps air into the combustion chamber under pressure and provides the right amount of air and good mixing with the gas for perfect combustion, by adjusting the speed depending on the current burner power. |
| my ariston worked for 7 years then the thermostat burned out changed everything is fine, but hot water does not come out. | Check the operation of the impeller. For 7 years, most likely it has jammed. |
| I have an ARISTON ABS VLS PW 50 water heater, it is in the country, water comes through a pumping station, the pumping station pumps water from a well. He constantly gives an error (the tank is not filled with water) something like that. I noticed that water enters it when the pumping station starts pumping water. When the station is filled with water, at this time the electric heater does not collect water! What could be? | There is a pressure sensor at the pumping station, with which you can adjust the pressure in the system. And you need to check the air pressure in the pumping station (in the accumulator), in a bottle with a rubber bulb, there is a pipette, like on a bicycle chamber. Perhaps there is some kind of valve in the column that works at a certain pressure, and the pressure in the system is not enough. |
| For some reason, my water heater beeps, do you know why? | High water pressure, so the valve beeps. |
| We have a 30-liter Ariston P30 / 5 in operation since July 2000! He moved with us to a new apartment in 2004 and is still doing well. They did not clean it prophylactically, the water in St. Petersburg is soft, and they did it, probably, on the conscience: it keeps the heat well, economical. Used as a help when the water is turned off in the summer and when there are frequent interruptions in hot water supply. And one more thing: for the last month, we observe how from the hole intended for draining excess water and located on the horizontal deaf branch of the water intake pipe of the water heater, it drips slightly. This happens some time after you turn on the heating, I use the "economical" mode and wait for the water to warm up. As soon as you let the hot water flow a little bit from the water heater, the “drops” stop and do not resume any longer. Maybe someone will tell why it happens? | "Drops" is the expansion of the heating water. there is an instruction in the instructions: put a rubber tube on the appendix and bring it to the drain. |
| We have a 50-liter Ariston vertical electric water heater, but after 1.5 years of use, one day it began to flow at the bottom in the area of the temperature regulator. I read that many have such a problem. Can someone still tell you what the problem is (from those who nevertheless contacted the service center with such a problem), is there any point in repairing or is it already faulty? | Have you carried out prophylaxis during these one and a half years of use? did you clean the heating element? changed the anode? Ariston's water heaters, although reliable, still need timely maintenance. And it is recommended to clean and / or replace the anode every 1.5 - 2 years. And if the water is not of the best quality, then more often it is possible. Most likely, a leak in the area of the thermostat is a consequence of the fact that the heating element needs to be cleaned. And it is better to do this not in private conditions, but in a service center, this procedure is not complicated and not expensive. |
| Installed a water heater Ariston ABS PRO ECO 100 V. Only when heating does not drip water from the safety valve. This is normal? | Water can flow from the outlet of the back-safety valve designed to relieve excess pressure: With constant excess pressure in the cold water supply system (more than 6-8 Bar, the EVN model depends, cold water flows). Or when the water pressure in the system is close to the maximum allowable during the heating process (hot water flows from the tank). |
| Not so long ago, I installed an Ariston electric water heater for 65 liters, until today it worked fine, but now the entire scale is blinking and inaudible to heat the water, tried to restart it several times, no result, it turns on a little noise, then it blinks again with the whole scale and stops heating. Tell me what to do? | I will say banality, but a water heater is not a monolith, but rather complex equipment, you need to monitor it. We do four simple things: we regularly check the safety valve, change the anode in a timely manner, drain the water for a period without operation, and properly descale. |
| Installed gas water heater Ariston in the apartment. The first couple of years everything seemed to be normal, and then either the external conditions changed (water / gas pressure), or the column worn out. In general, in winter, when the temperature of the water in the pipes drops significantly, the column heats the water to an insufficiently high temperature. Measurements with a thermometer, a clock and a bucket show that the power is reduced by 25-30 percent. During periods of large analysis of water, the storage water heater works weakly (the power was measured for such a period). And at night, when the water pressure is higher, especially if you open the tap harder, the column starts to heat up quite normally. In general, there is an opinion that you can probably tweak something in this column so that it starts working normally - after all, there is potential. Only from the operating instructions it is not at all clear what exactly can be tweaked. Or there is nothing to twist, but you just need to change the water heater? | The reasons for the drop in power (if it really fell, and not just require more from the device than it can) are not many - low gas pressure, contamination of the burner nozzles or its diffusers, contamination of the heat exchanger with scale inside or soot and oxides outside. With an increase in water pressure, the flow and power increase, since in this column there is a mechanical open-loop power control system from the flow. Its parameters could easily go away, since they depend on the cross-section of the channels in the water block, the purity of the venturi nozzle, and the serviceability of the membrane. If, with the passport flow and gas pressure, the power does not correspond to the declared one, you must first of all check the condition of the parts of the water block, clean them from deposits and replace the membrane, since a hole even a couple of tenths of a mm when exposed to operating pressures can lead to a decrease in the performance of such a system. |
| There is no central heating supply, parents bought a boiler 11 years ago, 150 liters, very large, no complaints, we change the heating element every 2 years, because is covered with limescale and starts to heat badly. Heats up to boiling water, the temperature in the tank is regulated. | Put a magnetic filter on the water and you will change the heating elements every 5 years. |
| I cleaned the ariston platinum SL-100 water heater, oval flange. The gasket has raised doubts. I bought a new one, not original. Collected, began to fill with water-dripping at the place of contact of the heating element. He began to tighten the bolt that the ten itself holds (it was not tightened all the way), it dripped even more. Pinched it all the way, it still drips. I had to disassemble again. I put the old gasket, missed the ring groove of the heating element with a sealant - the leak stopped. What could be the problem? Maybe the quality of the rubber? And another question. There was another problem. When the tank was full, it began to drip heavily between the neck and the flange, from under the gasket. I tightened the bolt on the clamping bar, it stopped dripping, but water was still oozing out. I drained the water, took out the flange, the gasket is clean, the fit to the neck is also smooth. I collected it again, took some water, pulled it up - it's normal.I thought there shouldn't be a problem with flanges like this. Centered like normal. Maybe there are some nuances here? Maybe when I removed and put the gasket on the flange, I did not wear it perfectly? | In any case, remove the EVN and check the connection point. Yes, it seems there are no subtleties. Check if there is anything preventing the installation of the gasket from the inside of the tank? Can smear something on the gasket and the inside of the tank where the flange is installed. Well, for example, a lubricant for flax. If a leak occurs, pull the nut until it stops flowing. Naturally within reason. |
| I operate the Ariston ABS VLS PW100 electric water heater. Everything was fine, there were no complaints about him. But recently his little screen has gone out, where the temperature and modes are displayed. Then it worked for a short time, but soon it went out again. And now it doesn't burn. When analyzing the panel with the screen, an interesting thing came to light: when a bright light is directed onto the screen, the numbers can be seen, but they themselves do not glow. Who knows how the screen can be repaired? It's a shame to throw out such a water heater because of a non-burning screen. With all this, all the functions of the water heater are working properly. | Most likely, the internal backlight does not work on the display. If everything else works, it is controlled from the display, then try to find an electronics engineer who will try to figure it out. Or try to find a new board. And for the future, try not to take models with electronics, the simpler the more reliable. |
| Electric water heater ABS PRO ECO 65 V Slim. Ariston. The instruction is lost. We want to change the ten with our own hands. Does not heat up. How to change with your own hands? | Unscrew everything from below (after de-energizing). Take out the ten. Install a new one, open the water and wash the dirt out of the tank. Dry and put in the reverse order. |
Water heater Termeks, error E1
Good day, dear readers. Many owners of "Termeks" storage water heaters, after some time after putting the device into operation, find on the display the error code E 1. According to the instructions, it means insufficient filling of the tank with water. I don't know how correct this is, in my case everything looks a little different. In this article, I'll show you how I deal with this nuisance.
I'll start over. After the purchase and installation of the THERMEX IF LT 50V water heater, there were no problems for three months until the inscription E1 began to flash. First of all, I opened the operating instructions and read: item included. Remedy: it is necessary to fill the tank with water until it refuses, and then turn on the power. ”Not really understanding why this is happening, I decided to open the hot water tap and drain a certain amount, while slightly shaking the heater itself (suddenly there was an air lock in it). After these manipulations, I plugged it in and adjusted the temperature. Oddly enough, everything worked. But the joy was short-lived, the next day the mistake showed up again. Confident that the water heater was airing again, he performed the already familiar actions. Everything went back to normal again, but an hour later there was a squeak announcing the problem. I tried again, it didn't help. Wandering around the net, I found only standard answers, similar to the instructions. Well, I think, since the point is insufficient filling, why not completely drain everything and refill it. And so he did.
To drain the water from the Termeks-50 water heater, you must:
- Disconnect it from the power supply.
- Close the supply valve (connected to the blue connection).
- Place the mixer in the open hot water position. Some part of it will flow out and stop, and excess pressure in the heater will be released.
- Unscrew the drain plug, while not losing the plastic ring. It can stay inside the fitting. Then hook it up with a screwdriver.
- Fit a suitable hose to the drain connection to ensure that the water is drained into the drain.
During the flush, I noticed that in the toilet bowl, where the water went, some kind of excess substance accumulates, which, after being completely flushed, has accumulated in a good handful. When all the water had drained out, I briefly opened the inlet tap to better flush the tank. Then he removed the hose, tightened the drain plug and reopened the tap until the tank was full. The signal that the tank is full is a constant stream of water from the mixer. You can connect the water heater to the network and program the operating mode.
This whole operation saves us from the flashing E1 error for about 2-3 months, and when it occurs, I again drain, rinse and fill. During one such maintenance, I wrapped gauze around the hose and collected all the excess muck. You can admire what flows through our pipes.
And finally, a tip: use filters for additional purification of drinking water. On this I say goodbye, all the best.
Visit also the section "Useful tips"
